I made a box clamp out of 1" x 1.5" Spruce I ripped from a 2" x 4" on the tablesaw.
The back piece is the length of the box. The 2 sides are 0.5" shorter than the sides of the box, plus 1" for the width of the back piece. The front piece is 4" longer than the box.
I pre-drilled all the pieces, and screwed the back and sides down to the bench with 3" screws, squaring as I went.
I also pre-drilled the front piece and used 3" screws to screw the front to the sides. As they are 0.5" shorter than the sides of the box, tightening the screws clamps the box together.
I also staple-gunned wax paper from an old cereal bag inside the box clamp so the glue doesn't stick to it!
It worked flawlessly, love how it doesn't move around...
Think I'll leave it screwed to the bench for when I glue the soundboard and back on.
I use my old shop mate n' a couple bar clamps, but I need six hands.
Monterey > Brown Water Jerry (Rice)June 28, 2015 at 10:17pm
Yeah, don't have a shop mate yet! Seems to me they once sold a bike stand called a 3rd.hand- I'm still tying my bike to the rafters in the basement to work on it!
Remember, if all sides are cut to exact length, you only need to be conerned with one right angle. The others will fall into place automatically. Basic geometry.
gary sheldon > gary sheldonMarch 12, 2015 at 6:05pm
Your home-made box clamping jig looks pretty good. The one short-coming I see is that when you tighten up the front board, it tightens the sound box frame you are gluing up only on the two long sides of the box, but not on the two short sides of the box.
I was thinking that if the clamping jig were designed as two "L" shaped pieces that clamp together to make your rectangular form, then pressure would be applied on all 4-sides. Both "L" shaped pieces might be 1/4" short on both sides so that a 4 sides receive the pressure. The underlying board that the two "L" shaped pieces are screwed down to might have to be cut diagonally with a 1/2" gap so there is space to allow the two "L" shapes to be clamped together under pressure, but still retain a perfect 90 degree angle on all 4 corners. At this point its a "brain exercise", but maybe I can build one to show you better what I mean, or at least do a drawing. Let me do the drawing first.
Here's the drawing I promised... In my drawing I was assuming we'd be using 1" x 1" stock for the jig. The two triangular base boards can be made from 3/8" plywood of suitable size and cut on a diagonal as shown in blue on the above drawing. I showed wood screws, but the fasteners you guys have been discussing are probably better options.
Yes, Rand, you are right, it only tightens in one direction. I guess I made it like that because my short sides go inside the long sides, and I had already glued the posts to the short sides, so I only needed to clamp in one direction.
Your idea sounds way cool- after you build it, can you post pictures? Saw your post last night, but my brain was too tired to reply!
Monteray
gary sheldon > Rand MooreMarch 12, 2015 at 11:50am
I agree with you, Rand. And maybe this stuff is being over-thought. I have made home made clamps using long 1/4 X20 screws (or threaded rod), T nuts, some epoxy and scrap Oak. T Nuts are real cool. But it is important to epoxy them in.
I'll have to look for some of those T-bolts, Gary. I've been using carriage bolts and wing-nuts. The carriage bolts work alright if the square part of the heads are in an undersized hole so they don't turn when you tighten them up.
Replies
I use my old shop mate n' a couple bar clamps, but I need six hands.
Remember, if all sides are cut to exact length, you only need to be conerned with one right angle. The others will fall into place automatically. Basic geometry.
that is supposed to say concerned....
Hi Monteray,
Your home-made box clamping jig looks pretty good. The one short-coming I see is that when you tighten up the front board, it tightens the sound box frame you are gluing up only on the two long sides of the box, but not on the two short sides of the box.
I was thinking that if the clamping jig were designed as two "L" shaped pieces that clamp together to make your rectangular form, then pressure would be applied on all 4-sides. Both "L" shaped pieces might be 1/4" short on both sides so that a 4 sides receive the pressure. The underlying board that the two "L" shaped pieces are screwed down to might have to be cut diagonally with a 1/2" gap so there is space to allow the two "L" shapes to be clamped together under pressure, but still retain a perfect 90 degree angle on all 4 corners. At this point its a "brain exercise", but maybe I can build one to show you better what I mean, or at least do a drawing. Let me do the drawing first.
-Rand.
-Rand.
Your idea sounds way cool- after you build it, can you post pictures? Saw your post last night, but my brain was too tired to reply!
Monteray
I agree with you, Rand. And maybe this stuff is being over-thought. I have made home made clamps using long 1/4 X20 screws (or threaded rod), T nuts, some epoxy and scrap Oak. T Nuts are real cool. But it is important to epoxy them in.
T- nuts easy to find at the local hardware store. Epoxy them in or they will loosen up and fall out. Very handy items.
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