I got a silverware box from Goodwill for 50 cents because the young people running the store didn't know what it was. LOL
I bought one awhile back and gave it to my wife to use as a jewelry box, but I decided to use this one to make a 6 string Bo Diddly style guitar.
Last month I won a gift certificate for 50 bucks of CBGitty goodies. So I got their Toaster Bucker pickups to get that Gretcsh-Filtertron tone and a set of Gold Tuners.
Shaping up nicely. I like the Bo theme.
Keep the photos coming.
Thanks Tom. I need to get back on this. I plan to get the Gold Tiesco style tremolo that Gitty sells for this build. That will require a gold rollor bridge. It'll take me a couple of months to buy these parts to finish this build.
I can hardly wait to hear these pickups.
This color should look good with all the Gold hardware. May use a clear top coat with a little glitter in it to make it pop more. Depends on how it turns out.
I've been trying to identify the wood used to make this box. It has a paper veneer over it. The wood is light in weight, light in color and tight grained.
I'm thinking Balsa or Aspen.
Got the pots and bridge in the mail today. Large 500k Alpha's with split knurled shafts. My plan was for a rollor bridge, but my budget couldn't adapt. Got a intonated LP JR style Gold bridge instead. It can still be used with a tremolo like the one I was planning to get, don't know if that's going to work out budget-wise either. Still need a toggle switch, trussrod and strings.
Got the box sanded today. The top is Masonite like the Danelectro Guitars used, still think the sides are Balsa. Hopefully the neck trough and extra wing pieces in the box will stop any neck-dive.
Trying to decide whether or not to make the neck angled in the box or straight.
Those were my thoughts as well for the neck angle and bridge height. At the lowest height, the bridge would have the strings 10mm to 12mm(3/8 to 7/16) from the top of the guitar. The fretboard (if neck isn't angled)will be 3/16ths" above the top leaving a 1/4" at the highest fret. Making higher frets pull sharp when fretted.
So putting a 1 to 3 degree angle of the neck would help even things out. Other option would be to route a shallow cavity for the bridge. Then I could use the adjustment wheels to raise the bridge if needed.
The neck is a neck through, so if I angle it I would need to cut a long angled spacer to attach the neck to the body. That would be hard to do because my tools are limited. So routing a cavity for the bridge and making the neck flat will be easier. I'll use a roundover bit on the cavity edge to make stringing the guitar easier.