Right now, I have a 6 string electric, 2 humbuckers that can split between single and dual coil, a set of switches to control them, 2 tone pots, one 'blender' pot and one volume pot.
The issue is with the tone pots: I get no change in tone until a certain point then the tone drops to mud. kinda like the tone just falls off a cliff. Here is the wiring:
Again, everything works except the tone simply cuts out at a certain point. The pots are 500K and the caps are .047uf. This is driving me NUTS. This diagram is based off Seymour Duncan: 2 Hums, 1 Vol, 2 tones, 3way switch diagram. The blender is taking the place of the 3 way and I included the SPDT O-F-O switches to control the single/dual tap. I have even grounded Lug 3 on the tone pots.
Any insights as to what might cause the tone pots not to work correctly? Would I want to put in a 100K resistor in with the tone cap like this (at the tone pots, not volume pots):
The above is a low-pass filter in essence.
-WY
Replies
I think I bought a set of four 500K pots with two As and two Bs. I _think_ I am using the B pots as the volume and blend. A pots as tone. I _think_.
-WY
Roosterman said:
Yup. Had it that way originally.
Ehhhh, well, a 3-way only has three selections per se -- neck/neck-bridge/bridge. The switches I have can control not only each pup, but if its single, off, or dual coil.I just can't find a good single switch to control each pup individually.
Now, what I REALLY need is a true blend pot.
Ted Crocker said:
Right. Hmmmm. I think its a wiring issue rather than a pot issue.
-WY
Josh Gayou (SmokehouseGuitars) said:
Try using 2 A pots instead of an A and B pot Wes.
B pots are linear and and give the impression of nothing happening for most of the rotation.
Try not grounding the 3rd lug on the tone pot. I hate blend pots, way more control with a 3 way switch and 2 volume pots. Infinitely more. In the hand drawn sketch the tone pots don't look wired right. Looking from the bottom it should look like this:
No ground on the 3rd lug and the cap from the middle lug to the back of the pot to ground. I use audio taper pots.
Okay, here is the section from one of my reference books copied here word for word:
A linear pot is usually marked with a B or Lin and will reach 50% of its total resistance at 50% of its total rotation. Humans do not perceive volume as a linear scale, however, so these pots sound like they are doing very little for the first three-quarters of their rotation. Audio taper pots are usually marked with an A or Audio and have a logarithmic scale of resistance that increases volume in accordance with human hearing.
Moreover, all of the wiring schematics that I base my designs on always use a B pot for volume and an A pot for tone.
yeah matt, I'm not 100% sure about that either. Still searching
-WY
Artist Formerly Known as Matt said:
In the hand drawn diagram it looks like the tone pots will work more or less as variable bleed off resistors. I don't see that ending well, but it could work ..... I've seen something similar somewhere that changed tone by bleeding off the treble. ( or something like that)
I suggest playing with the pots themselves. It really sound like the differencr between using linear taper and audio taper pots.
Maybe also try changing values.
AFKAM
Any thoughts on this working? Note where and how the tone pots are wired.
-WY
k. Thanks Josh!
-WY
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