I recently tried title bond 3, and at the risk of teaching my grandma to suck eggs.
I found that it leaves a black line along the joint, which is virtually impossible to get rid of, so I will stick to titebond 2.
Just thought I would let you know before you spend your money.
I will try to use it up where it can't be seen, but I won't be buying any more.

Hope It Helps

Philyaboots.

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I use Gorilla Glue (the white PVA, not the foaming polyurethane glue) it dries to a slight tan, clamping time of about 30 minutes...

Thanks for the tip on TB III!
I had bad luck with gorilla glue. Super strong at first but later the joints were brittle and some joints broke. I won't use it again.

Hi Philip. I have used TB III to glue fretboard to necks as well as most of my cbg gluing requirements through 2 big bottles. I have not observed the black line you describe. My wood is mostly red oak (necks and fret boards), a little poplar, and scraps of other stuff laying around. Wonder if the wood you use might have a hand in your negative effect? Not shillin' for TB3, just wondering.

I don't have observed the black line you describe neither, my necks are beech tree and it's even hard to check where the joint is.

When was it made "new"? The stuff I used foamed but it was quite a while ago.

TB lll dries darker than Elmers and if the joint isn't tight you might see a line of the glue there making the line. When joints are tight it never shows. TB lll is all I have ever used and it works fine when I pay attention to quality in my work, if not then I get what's deserved.

Hope this helps but I should have realised that a water based product would affect the white oak I am using.
I built my own camper van and lined the interior with oak finished ply panels, and you really need to keep water away from them as any water marks are black. I think I will stick with titebond 2 in the future.
Good luck and happy building and playing to you all.
Regards Philyaboots.

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