Posted by Matt Philip on October 12, 2009 at 1:48am
I was wondering if anyone has another method for creating the sunburst look besides the spray paint one. I can't paint well and have no place to do it. Maybe there is a sanding method, thinner method. Let us know how you do it.
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Here you go. This is an oak "Fanned" fretboard stained with the black rust. The staining job took 5 minutes and 1 one minute to patch up after fretting/sanding.
The later photo is after a very light coat of varnish, turning the black stain a rich dark brown.
I am happy with it seeing as it cost nothing.
Matt Philip said:
this sounds really interesting I would love to see pictures
Will Carter said:
Here is a trick I picked up in Japan... I call it fake ebonising. You put some clean steel wool in a jar with some water (I use filtered) and agitate the steel wool by shaking the now sealed jar. In a few days the steel wool will rust and go into the water. I keep a jar of it and it lasts forever. If you use just the water minus the steel wool the wood will stain , if you use the wool itself the wood goes completely black.
This is better than using ink as the wood texture is not effected only the colour. I generally have to seal the wood with either laquor or varnish or anything to stope the black coming off, but if you can buff the wood you should be good to go. I will post some pics on the ebonised fretboards I have recently done. Hope this helps as a cheap arse solution to he staining situation :)
this sounds really interesting I would love to see pictures
Will Carter said:
Here is a trick I picked up in Japan... I call it fake ebonising. You put some clean steel wool in a jar with some water (I use filtered) and agitate the steel wool by shaking the now sealed jar. In a few days the steel wool will rust and go into the water. I keep a jar of it and it lasts forever. If you use just the water minus the steel wool the wood will stain , if you use the wool itself the wood goes completely black.
This is better than using ink as the wood texture is not effected only the colour. I generally have to seal the wood with either laquor or varnish or anything to stope the black coming off, but if you can buff the wood you should be good to go. I will post some pics on the ebonised fretboards I have recently done. Hope this helps as a cheap arse solution to he staining situation :)
Here is a trick I picked up in Japan...
I call it fake ebonising. You put some clean steel wool in a jar with some water (I use filtered) and agitate the steel wool by shaking the now sealed jar. In a few days the steel wool will rust and go into the water. I keep a jar of it and it lasts forever. If you use just the water minus the steel wool the wood will stain , if you use the wool itself the wood goes completely black.
This is better than using ink as the wood texture is not effected only the colour. I generally have to seal the wood with either laquor or varnish or anything to stope the black coming off, but if you can buff the wood you should be good to go. I will post some pics on the ebonised fretboards I have recently done. Hope this helps as a cheap arse solution to he staining situation :)
food coloring will fade over time but you can also just think that it will add some character over time.
i have been thinking about dying my neck using kool aid (i figure just look at what it does to carpet)
btw stay away form wood stain. its a diffent creature than dye.
Food coloring is not always permanent, though. Over time it is likely to fade. Folks use it to dye wool yarn, for example, and it is only relatively light fast.
For fabric dye, you need to be sure you get one that works on plant-based fibers, and not animal/protein fibers. So one that dyes cotton, rayon, linen, etc would be good to try, but not one recommended for silk, wool, mohair, etc.
Paul Doug said:
I'm thinking you can use the same dye you use to dye clothes. Is it expensive? Food coloring will work also. A little bit goes a long ways.
Replies
The later photo is after a very light coat of varnish, turning the black stain a rich dark brown.
I am happy with it seeing as it cost nothing.
Matt Philip said:
back of fretboard.JPG
just stained.JPG
varnished over stain.JPG
http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/ts0000.hzml
Will Carter said:
I call it fake ebonising. You put some clean steel wool in a jar with some water (I use filtered) and agitate the steel wool by shaking the now sealed jar. In a few days the steel wool will rust and go into the water. I keep a jar of it and it lasts forever. If you use just the water minus the steel wool the wood will stain , if you use the wool itself the wood goes completely black.
This is better than using ink as the wood texture is not effected only the colour. I generally have to seal the wood with either laquor or varnish or anything to stope the black coming off, but if you can buff the wood you should be good to go. I will post some pics on the ebonised fretboards I have recently done. Hope this helps as a cheap arse solution to he staining situation :)
Diane said:
Matt Philip said:
i have been thinking about dying my neck using kool aid (i figure just look at what it does to carpet)
btw stay away form wood stain. its a diffent creature than dye.
For fabric dye, you need to be sure you get one that works on plant-based fibers, and not animal/protein fibers. So one that dyes cotton, rayon, linen, etc would be good to try, but not one recommended for silk, wool, mohair, etc.
Paul Doug said:
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