I'm getting things in line for my first CBG...I'm looking for good spots to glean some scrap wood, but what thickness is good to work with. I've seen alot on ebay thats 3/4 or 7/8 inch, but is that too thin by itself? So what is too thick, too thin, and what range is just right?...also, consider thickness if not using a separate fretboard compared to added size if you did.
Thanks for the help...this site rocks. I'll keep ya posted on my progress.
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Is that basically what 2X4 lumber for studs? I wonder if studs would work. Hmmmmmm.....
tinyguitars said:
It's amazing how much of a difference laminating, or glueing wood together, makes! I used plain ol southern yellow pine in this neck: It was made from four pieces. Back of the neck was actually bookmatched, sepererate fretboard and heel were glued on also. This neck was stiffer than anything I've done. You could not bend it while playing like I've done with every other guitar I've ever played. Of course it was over 1 1/2 thick at the heel!! heheehee Mark Werner said:
If you want to pick through a lot of lumber, Ideally you'd want to find a piece that's entirely "quarter sawn", that is, the grain will be at right angles to the way the strings lay. Hard to find such nice chunks, though, unless you're in a position to rip 'em yourself. As Tinyguitars says, usually you get a piece with some of the grain more exposed, and the softer rings can be a problem. Had a bit of this with the neck I'm working on right now; used a sanding block to get the high parts level. On my mandola, I built up a neck blank by gluing two 1" Maple boards with a 1/4" oak piece in between. Made for a very stiff piece of lumber...Hasn't shown any warping with all those eight strings.
hmm, i'll have to start checking out construction/industrial dumpsters. I'm totally interested in making a banjo, but because i cant bend wood, i thought about hallowing out something like this
but instead for now, I just bought a few tambourines for the pot, make a 3 string dulcijo and I'll give em to the kids.
is there a good substitute for a fret hammer and file or are they so inexpensive that you might as well get em?
Mark Werner said:
Working here at "Wash U" as I do, I find a lot of scrap around here from the constant construction and renovation projects. Big commercial dumpsters have furnished me with all sorts of stuff, from the 1/8" hardwood plywood I used for my banjo top to bits and pieces of moulding which make good reinforcing "kerfs" to scraps of hardwood furniture and cabinetry material. I'm working on a resonator guitar now, and the neck is a piece of solid oak I found on the art department's scrap heap. Already nicely tapered and just the right size....
Working here at "Wash U" as I do, I find a lot of scrap around here from the constant construction and renovation projects. Big commercial dumpsters have furnished me with all sorts of stuff, from the 1/8" hardwood plywood I used for my banjo top to bits and pieces of moulding which make good reinforcing "kerfs" to scraps of hardwood furniture and cabinetry material.
I'm working on a resonator guitar now, and the neck is a piece of solid oak I found on the art department's scrap heap.
Already nicely tapered and just the right size....
I'll keep an eye out, we get a couple pallets at work every week, but it has so far just seemed like run of the mill wood. I probably will gank some of it for braces and/or practice wood since I know I am likely to screw something up sometime.
At some time I'd like to get 2x4 or larger and make a one piece neck but I am way ahead of myself.
Gene said:
i was given a hint bout free wood when i got started by Big Daddy and it is that a lot of pallets have oak mahogany and other hard woods and u can get them free most of the time use the pieces on the under sides (the braces)
awesome...thats what I needed to be confirmed. that seems to me to be a good deal if each board runs me about $3, although I know scrap is cheaper which leads me to my next point.
It was after church today that I went out to the dump and found an old chair that I thought would make some good scrap neck, but then I thought, "dang it, I dont have a saw!" Then BEHOLD I looked and thar she blowed...a frigen saw sitting in the snow next to it like some kind of Christmas miracle. Its a sign from God hahaaaa...I cut that chair UP babee!
Spencer, I like the 1x2 (which is actually 3/4" x 1.5") red oak as well and you can get it cheap from lowes or home dumpo. On my last 4 stringer I laminated a 1/4 piece of poplar (get that at lowes / home dumpo as well) AND another 1/4" piece of red oak for the fretboard. This way I could taper the neck from 1.25" at the base to 3/4" or so at the nut. The poplar went up through the headstock for a two-toned look. What is nice about this approach is that if you do a bolt on style neck, you can use the same 1x2 stock for bracing inside the box, and the two 1/4" pieces give just enough clearance over the top of the box.
spencer said:
alright, that's some really good help, and I appreciate it. Now ...1) what does red oak look like finished?
How good is black walnut because I really like the look it? my plans really coming together muaahaahaahaaa
alright, that's some really good help, and I appreciate it. Now ...1) what does red oak look like finished?
How good is black walnut because I really like the look it?
If you want to pick through a lot of lumber, Ideally you'd want to find a piece that's entirely "quarter sawn", that is, the grain will be at right angles to the way the strings lay.
Hard to find such nice chunks, though, unless you're in a position to rip 'em yourself. As Tinyguitars says, usually you get a piece with some of the grain more exposed, and the softer rings can be a problem. Had a bit of this with the neck I'm working on right now; used a sanding block to get the high parts level.
On my mandola, I built up a neck blank by gluing two 1" Maple boards with a 1/4" oak piece in between. Made for a very stiff piece of lumber...Hasn't shown any warping with all those eight strings.
Replies
tinyguitars said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/XXL-BLACK-WALNUT-WOOD-TURNING-BOWL-BLANK-LATHE-...|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50
but instead for now, I just bought a few tambourines for the pot, make a 3 string dulcijo and I'll give em to the kids.
is there a good substitute for a fret hammer and file or are they so inexpensive that you might as well get em?
Mark Werner said:
I'm working on a resonator guitar now, and the neck is a piece of solid oak I found on the art department's scrap heap.
Already nicely tapered and just the right size....
At some time I'd like to get 2x4 or larger and make a one piece neck but I am way ahead of myself.
Gene said:
It was after church today that I went out to the dump and found an old chair that I thought would make some good scrap neck, but then I thought, "dang it, I dont have a saw!" Then BEHOLD I looked and thar she blowed...a frigen saw sitting in the snow next to it like some kind of Christmas miracle. Its a sign from God hahaaaa...I cut that chair UP babee!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360121555822...
spencer said:How good is black walnut because I really like the look it?
my plans really coming together muaahaahaahaaa
Hard to find such nice chunks, though, unless you're in a position to rip 'em yourself. As Tinyguitars says, usually you get a piece with some of the grain more exposed, and the softer rings can be a problem. Had a bit of this with the neck I'm working on right now; used a sanding block to get the high parts level.
On my mandola, I built up a neck blank by gluing two 1" Maple boards with a 1/4" oak piece in between. Made for a very stiff piece of lumber...Hasn't shown any warping with all those eight strings.
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