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  • Thanks, all. I think I might mark them on the fingerboard with a silver or gold metallic sharpie. I plan on using a very dark stain on the fingerboard, so that should "pop" nicely . Another question. How high should the action be to be played with fingers or slide?

    • Thickness of a dime at the first fret, nickel at the 12th, is good for both fingered and slide. Others will respond with more detailed metric dimensions.
      • I like that way of checking it. Kinda like a go/no-go gauge.

    • i  think  you  will  find that   silver and gold   sharpies   will  smudge  .  an oil  pen  for  cds   and  dvds  would be   better  ,  but they are  mostly  dark  colors  .

       

      • Sharpie will be under a coat of spray polyurethane for protection. I've done similar on other projects. As long as the sharpie is completely dry and the first few coats of polyurethane are light, it works ok.

  • my last tin box guitar ,I just used a nail with the end slightly flattened off and lightly punch mark the fret markers on the side

    3,5,7,9,12.

    • i used the relevant number punches and rubbed paint into it

  • On my first builds I drew them on with a sharpie marker, (after getting the measurements from the Stew-Mac fret calculator program). As I build more I just mark them on the side of the fingerboard for reference. As Cause said when you get to the point you aren't looking for them anymore, just dots screws or tacks at the 3, 5, 7 or whatever you work off of will do the trick nicely. Most of all, have fun with them. If you just mark the sides it leaves more space for artwork and you can be more creative.

  • They make it easier to find your way around the neck. Once you get to where your not looking anymore then dots for 3,5,7 and so on will do ya.

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