Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by bizzaro guitaro on January 30, 2012 at 11:26pm

Rand, thanks for the info.the pictures explain alot.some good ideas.one more thing if you could.They are about1" to 3cm. wide. can you tell me how deep(thick)they are? they look pretty strong.I would like to make a few like these instead of using scarf joints. Bizzaro 

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Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on February 4, 2012 at 11:31pm

Hi Bizzaro,

Again, the cherry trim wood I use is 3cm wide and 0.5cm thick. I glue (laminate) two pieces together, clap them down to dry for an hour or so, then glue on the next layer, repeating this process until I have 6 or 7 layers (boards) laminated together. If 6, then the neck width will be 6 times 0.5 cm or 3.0 cm wide, so, in this case the neck is 3cm wide and 3cm deep. Then I file and sand the edges of the neck until smooth, so this slightly reduces the neck depth by 1 or 2 mm. Then,when forming the headstock, I'm careful to orient the neck so that the laminated boards are oriented vertically for maximum strength. Also, when I cut the individual boards that make up the neck, I number them in pencil, then orient each board so that the grain direction or curvature is reversed wen compared to the previous layer, a practice that also adds to neck strength. Hopefully, I answered your question.

-Rand.

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Permalink Reply by bizzaro guitaro on February 6, 2012 at 5:01am

Rand, Now I get it,thanks for your time and help.Seems my head is thicker than than your necks. I will try some of your methods. Bizzaro

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Permalink Reply by William McCauley on January 30, 2012 at 3:51pm

  

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Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on January 29, 2012 at 7:20pm

Hi All.

On most of the scarf joints that I've done, I used a tenon saw to make the cut followed by wood rasps to even ot the cut. However, on a couple of wider necks I did, found I ran out of "bite space" on the saw because of the "backbone" that runs down the back of these saws (which gives the blade more strength ans stability when cutting). In both cases I had to turn the work piece over and cut from the other side hoping to meet in the middle with a clean cut. Needless to say, the cuts didn't turn out that well, so I had to file them more than usual to allow the joint to fit properly. After that, I went out and bought what I'd describe as a "tall bladed tenon saw". I don't know its real name, but it kind of looks like a tenon saw with the same kind and size saw teeth, and the "backbone", but the saw blade is 35cm long and 10cm tall. I find it cuts just as well and w/o having to flip you work piece over and saw fom the other side. The brand name on the saw it "Atomic", which I believe is a Chinese company. The rasp I use is a "4-in-1" hobbyist rasp that I think I bought at Sears a year or two ago. It is my favorit rasp among the dozen rasps and files I have.

Also, I've found its best to "stack" the head and tail pieces together as shown in the following diagram to get the best fit for the scarf joint.

Just take your time making the scarf cut with your tenon saw as clean as possible, then come back with a rough wood rasp, then a finer wood file, then maybe a a sanding block with course then medium sandpaper. Also, you must take care when gluing the two pieces together that the two pieces don't slip when you clamp them together, and be sure clamping pressure is even on both sides of the neck. Scarf joints get easier with practice. Good luck.

-Rand.

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Permalink Reply by Ron "Oily" Sprague on January 29, 2012 at 7:42pm

Rand,

 

Thanks very much for the drawing; very useful.

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Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on January 29, 2012 at 8:14pm

You're welcome.

-Rand.

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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on January 29, 2012 at 7:45pm

Rand, the size of tenon saw you are describing is about the usual size...anything smaller isn't what most people would recognise as a regular tenon saw.

With any sort of woodworking skill, it takes time and practice to master, so getting a saw to cut straight & true and planing /sanding a nice flat surface won't necessarily go right first time. The other tools you need are a good try-square and a steel straight edge.

With critical joints like this, I often mark lightly over the the mating surfaces with a broad pencil scribble before doing the final sanding so that I can see if I'm leaving any low spots...once all the pencil marks are sanded away you should be left with a flat surface..but keep checking with your straightedge. Don't rely on a plastic or wooden rule, make sure you have good steel rule and look after it...don't let it get bent or marred with sharp tools.

It will seem like a lot of work first time, but the more you do the easier it will become.

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Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on January 29, 2012 at 8:14pm

I like your idea about broad pencil scribbling and sanding to find any remaining low spots. Will have to give it a try next time.

The two older "tenon saws" I have are 25cm long by 4.5cm tall (they differ slightly with teeth size/spacing), and when I think of "tenon saw" it's these "shorter" saws that come to mind. My newer 10cm tall saw has more than twice the bite depth of the old ones, and so make a better choice if doing wider neck scarf joints. I do work with steel metric rulers and squares.

Thanks for your feedback, John.

-Rand.

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Permalink Reply by Randy S. Bretz on January 29, 2012 at 8:37pm

Here`s a pocket peghead, one of my favorites. I use a dremel router.

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Permalink Reply by Randy S. Bretz on January 29, 2012 at 8:44pm

Or you can make a neck from a tree limb with a natural angled peghead. the neck on this build was made from a butternut tree limb like in the background. Something fun about makin a neck with a chainsaw....lol.

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Permalink Reply by Randy S. Bretz on January 29, 2012 at 8:48pm

All natural angled peghead

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