I like the well-worn look. It is in keeping with the roots and philosophy of use what ya got, and you don’t got much. Someday I’d like to make a CBG with just a pocketknife or nail
Hi Michael, its a bit hard to say, sometimes a lacquer can have an effect on the paint it is covering and make things worse. I usually test whatever I want to use over a pre finished instrument in some out of the way/out of sight area first. You can put some lacquer on a cotton bud and wipe it on in some small area and see what happens.
Taffy, Pick, Paul, people, before i fall down from this strange flue i've contracted, i have to add a small diatribe about soldering. my opinions. the best way to get a solid solder joint is the aforementioned melt and flick method. an iron cannot be tinned too much. i also give every joint i solder a quick blast of electrical cleaner, especially twisted wires laterally for shrink wrap. not that i have any greasy fingers, i have no fingerprints. i did small and large format photographic printing for 30 years, my fingers left no mark. i'd eat potato chips at lunch with a fork, just slide them in. folks thought i was crazy, but there's no easy way to get potato chip grease off your fingers. Then when i was done with my lunch i would dip my hands in the cup of coke and wash them with the ice, coke works well. so, i'd make a beautiful glossy print for a client, and they'd hand it back to me with a big greasy thumbprint. Garbage. I'd leave the enlarger set up to make a fresh print. anyway, thanks for listening, (maybe), fun typing when one feels dizzy. So my motto: clean soldering is happy soldering. Tin the iron. if you can't see a little tiny reflection of yourself in the soldered joint, send it to me. Or pick, or paul, or many, or di iy again. i try melting it with my eyes, cleopatra can do it. (did i mention i have the flue? just drank a half gallon of apple cider vinegar......we'll see, just feel bloated at the moment........).
Hey Dan, would that be a half gallon of HARD cider?
jus kiddin Brother.
Dan is my mentor in many builds and he has a crazy amount of knowledge.
Lacquer has really strong solvents... Shellac, or even oil based poly... but really really light coats...
I'm with AP... give it some character.
What about all the solder i flick on the rug before getting a good joint? my thing is to tin the iron, wipe it off melt more fresh solder on it and flick it off, the go to town. works really well. for some reason the vacuum doesn't pick it up.
Silver flake carpet .. very spencive .. you sell , make big moneys .
Cool idea. in that case, the little pieces i pull out of my bare foot are wasted by the by.
In the classical guitar world they use a thin, clear, plastic, peel and stick material they call a scratch plate. I have seen it in sheets as large as 8x20 inches.
I'm really late to the party Michael, but do you have any packing tape lying around? ... kidding :-)
A couple folks suggested leaving it to relic, and it's hard to disagree, but sounds like maybe you're of the same mind as me. I love the relic aesthetic, but can't bring myself to do it. I've done a lot of clearcoating and wet-sanding and vowed never again - just too nasty in every way imaginable no matter how pretty it turns out. I'd suggest wipe-on poly in successive thin coats in as dust-free an environment as possible (good luck with that). Of course always test a small hidden area, but it's been compatible with every box I've used it on - again staying LIGHT and not insisting in any one area, just keep it moving. You'll get light swirl marks that pretty much only show up under direct light, but if you can't live with those you can still buff out with a light finishing compound or - deep breath - wet sand.
Yeah, I'm a little bit torn between just letting it wear naturally and trying to protect it...maybe leaning toward letting it wear, right now. Thanks for the poly suggestion...I'll consider it.