Proper order for shaping/attaching headstock?

Tom T July 28, 2019 at 8:19pm

There are probably dozens of good ways to accomplish shaping & drilling the peg-head, cutting the scarf joint and attaching it to the neck blank. Mostly it's a matter of your available tools and which techniques feel comfortable to you.

To add to your options (or confusion), here is the approach I have taken on a number of 3, 4, 5 and 6 stringers.

1. Cut the scarf angle on your peg-head blank. Might as well cut the scarf angle on both the neck and peg-head and one time using the technique Taffy explained.

2. Shape your peg-head however you want and drill for the tuners.

3. This is really the step that you are concerned about: Gluing the peg-head to the neck blank

I've tried many approaches to keeping the joint from slipping when clamping is applied. This includes small screws, sprinkles of salt, a fixture that holds each piece (neck and peg-head) firmly in position and (my favorite) a single small tack tapped through the upper piece of the scarf joint into the lower. I usually dry fit the pieces and clamp them so I can drill a small pilot hole into both pieces. If you apply glue to both surfaces, take off the excess and allow it to become tacky (like it says on the bottle) then the joint can be assembled, the tack tapped into place then clamped tightly with several clamps. Once you double check the alignment of pieces, leave it alone. It will not slip.Once it's dry, remove the tack. You can fill the hole with wood putty or cover it with a fret board.

Like I said, this technique is only of several that will work well. I just like the simplicity of this approach. Hasn't failed me yet.

Taffy Evans July 28, 2019 at 6:56pm

Hi Sean, just bare in mind that I'm talking full size guitar necks. But I do use all the same techniques, jigs [though modified for CBGs] and methods for any instrument I build. This I would say is the accepted method for preparing a guitar neck. How you get it done depends on a number of things.

1- what tools and machines you have, 2- What materials you have to hand and 3- how many are you going to build and for who.

Any way this has been my my procedure for the last 40 odd years:

1- Cut off the desired length off of the neck blank for the peghead at a 15deg angle

2- Sand both sawn surfaces smooth

3- Flip this cut piece over and lay in position. I have one glue line in middle of peghead [then covered by veneer] and the other glue line behind the nut at the back of the neck. Place in gluing jig and clamp up, after gluing of course.

3- I would then glue on the wings

4- I then thin the peghead to a thickness that suits the tuning peg posts, up the area behind the nut

5- I then mark out the peghead shape and saw it on the bandsaw [I do not know what you have]

6- I make a template of this shape and put the post holes in it, lay it on the p/h mark and drill the holes

7- Then its just a matter of blending the neck into the peghead by carving or sanding

8- I then measure down from the nut position to plan the neck length and fingerboard.

You will find that one has to be creative and always thinking "Try another way" . You said you have the neck sticking out, well work around that, either the methods you use, the jigs you have to make or even the tools you have to modify.

I have included some photos of the glue up jig that stops the parts from moving whilst gluing.

Good luck Taff

Taffy Evans > Taffy Evans July 28, 2019 at 7:05pm

Here's what I meant about cutting and gluing the splice.

Paul Craig July 28, 2019 at 5:04pm

It's good to have a vise to hold the neck will doing any work on it. You need a vise with wood clamps so as not to mar your work.

Paul Craig July 28, 2019 at 5:02pm

I use screws to attach the headstock to the neck while the glue dries. Then I usually take the screws out and replace with wood dowels. The use of screws in this joint helps keep good pressure on the joint while the glue dries. It's easier than trying to clamp it all in place.

I dry fit the 2 pieces first and use a clamp to hold things. Then I drill a pilot hole through both pieces(1 on each side of the truss rod channel). Then remove the clamp and drill the headstock for the screw to pass through easily. Then glue both pieces, put them together and put the 2 screws in a bit loose. Line the 2 pieces up correctly and screw tightly. Wait 24 to 48 hours. Remove screws and drill holes all the way through and glue in dowels. You could leave the screws in and if your good enough not to drill all the way through, the screws won't show through the other side of the neck.

Another way to do it is to embed some small nails in one of the pieces with sharp points sticking up. fit the 2 pieces together correctly and clamp tightly enough to make the nails stick in. Take it back apart and glue it together with the nails holding it straight and clamp it up til it dries. 24 to 48 hours it's ready.

Both ways work well.

David Bowes July 28, 2019 at 12:51pm

I've had also considered using dowels, drilling holes all the way through the neck and headstock and leaving them showing.

I have also tried using panel pins, driving them into one half, then cutting them off so that they are approximately 2mm proud, then dry clamp the two parts together to make keyholes in the second part, leave them in place when glueing.

I have also read the using a small amount between the two surfaces will reduce slippage, but not tried this

I usually glue the wings on after this

Forums

Proper order for shaping/attaching headstock?

Replies