I'm coming to the final stages of my most recent build. I'm using a Rocky Patel Battalion box that is made from rough cedar. I usually like to add some clear coat to the box before I finish.
Would there be any problems with trying to add a clear coat finish to such a rouch textured box? Would a spray or brush on work better?
Thanks!
Replies
Thanks for all of the feedback! I think I will probably leave it bare. I'd hate to put so much work into this guitar just to put a coating on the box at the end and have it look/feel bad.
I am going to mock it up before I wire it anyway, so I'll be able to see how it looks. I have a feeling it's going to look pretty good.
Thanks again.
If this box is like the rough side of western cedar, the finish I described wouldn't be right for that box. It would give disappointing results. I would now agree with others here, do nothing. If you put wax or most anything else on it will make it darker, but would not show dirt as bad. Unfinished, after a while it will show dirt, but that will give it "character". I wasn't trying to give you bad advice, I haven't run into a box that is rough as you have. The picture doesn't show the texture as you described. It will make a nice one. Good luck with it.
I'm with Randy and cbj, don't do a thing.
I have a couple of boxes that I topped with weathered boards, one Oak and one Hemlock - the Oak I left natural but I coated the Hemlock - it was like petting a porcupine the wrong way!!! GD slivers!!
Wax finishing is an option.
It`s a South American cedar...similar to a western cedar...I have a few of those boxes. Best to do like John suggested and leave it with no finish....let it age with playing it.
That box to me looks like it is not cedar but luan. That being said, you will get at least 50 different answers to your question. I have used (on my job) lacquer and polyurethane by the 55 gal. drum so I can say what I think, but it is still one mans' opinion. Lacquer dries fast so it works best if you spray it. That being said, I have the a cup gun and can spray, but it is a drag to fool with the clean-up. Brushing lacquer has retarder in it that allows you to brush it out smoothly (just don't brush more than necessary to smooth). Lacquer is brittle so it will chip and yellows over time. It is used commercially because you can finish the product and be boxing the finished product and shipping it the next day. If you do that with poly the packing materials will stick to the finish. If you want to finish that box I would use Min-Wax Poly. Like Chickenbone John told you it will absolutely drink the stuff. I put at least 5 coats, you only need to let it dry long enough so the next coat will not run or sag. I like to spray really "wet", like about 8 inches away and lay it on almost ready to sag. If you get a sag don't sweat it. Let it dry overnight and take a box knife blade and cut the sag as flat as you can get, soft sand and continue on. The first 2 or 3 coats can be applied about 30 min. apart. I let it dry overnight and soft sand it. Be sure you have enough "build" to the finish so you don't sand through. Then I put about 3 or more on and let it dry overnight, repeat the soft sand and then put on 2 or 3 final coats. You will have 12 to 15 coats on it (that's what suits me) In summer where I live it is very humid and the finish will "blush" (start to get a milky look), if left outside to dry. I spray outside and then carry the project inside the basement to cure. Note: The best way to make it able to move from one place to another is make a nail board. Take a piece of plywood and drive enough nails through it to make it look like a porcupine (not really, but enough to support work without slipping off) and put what you are trying to finish on the nail tips,that way air can circulate around to dry and the nail points will be almost unnoticeable in the finish Poly takes a month to really cure. You can handle it after an overnight dry but it is still "green" and can be damaged. You should wait at least 3, preferably more, days before trying to fret . The best way to tell is the "sniff" test. As long as you can smell the solvents evaporating out of the poly it is still curing. In about 30 days it is as hard as it will get. All this works for me but is only vaguely recognizable compared to the directions on the can. Hope this helps.
Just leave it as it comes, that's what I do with these roughsawn boxes...it's what it is. The trouble with trying to put a finish on rough timber is that will be very absorbent, and any finish will tend to lift the grain even more.