I recently built a deck and have some extra 2x2 Ipe rail material that I think would be sweet as the neck wood for my first CBG. Has anyone used this type of wood on a neck before? It's an extremely dense and strong tropical hardwood that is really pretty, but I just don't know how appropriate it would be for this purpose..
Thanks!
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Ever wonder why God put hair in our noses? It not a very good filter, least not with what we work with in these days.
StarGeezers said:
Gentlemen , we love to use hard dense oily tropical woods for our guitar making ... no reason it wouldn't work very well on a CBG neck... If you're gluing pieces together , a thorough cleaning with a rag and Acetone will remove most of the surface oils for better adhesion... We've had great luck using Titebond 2 for these woods ... never a failure , even after some guitars soaking a month during Katrina.. www.neworleansguitar.com On some oily woods , you almost don't need any finish at all , the natural oils protecting the wood from your oils ... for an easy durable finish , we like Burchwood Casey Tru-Oil gunstock finish ... wipe it on or rub it in with your fingers, let it dry overnight , repeat with several coats with a little smoothing with 0000 steel wool in between coats ... after 4-5 coats you'll have a nice glossy finish ... very similar to a nice poly finish ... after a week , you can buff it out to a high polish ...
If you're building quite a few CBGs , then some kind of dust collection system would be prudent... for one or two , I'd just do the sanding bits outside ...
Gentlemen , we love to use hard dense oily tropical woods for our guitar making ... no reason it wouldn't work very well on a CBG neck... If you're gluing pieces together , a thorough cleaning with a rag and Acetone will remove most of the surface oils for better adhesion... We've had great luck using Titebond 2 for these woods ... never a failure , even after some guitars soaking a month during Katrina.. www.neworleansguitar.com
On some oily woods , you almost don't need any finish at all , the natural oils protecting the wood from your oils ... for an easy durable finish , we like Burchwood Casey Tru-Oil gunstock finish ... wipe it on or rub it in with your fingers, let it dry overnight , repeat with several coats with a little smoothing with 0000 steel wool in between coats ... after 4-5 coats you'll have a nice glossy finish ... very similar to a nice poly finish ... after a week , you can buff it out to a high polish ...
If you're building quite a few CBGs , then some kind of dust collection system would be prudent... for one or two , I'd just do the sanding bits outside ...
A friend of my built a deck out of Brazilian Tiger wood. He jave me some scrapes about 18" long. I wish he had given me the whole deck! I think Ipe is close to the same. If so you have a treasure!
Rich mentioned the silica in the ipe. Depending on what you're using to shape the neck, be prepared to sharpen it. When I've turned ipe I have to go to the grinder with my tools regularly. It finishes beautifully though.
I've mixed a large bucket of finish that works pretty well and is a little more durable than the boiled linseed oil by itself. Take 1 gallon of Boiled Linseed Oil, 1 gallon of Mineral Spirits and a quart of "good" clear varnish and mix it in a sealable 5 gallon bucket. The cool thing about this finish is, for small pieces you just dunk em then put it on a piece of chicken wire and wipe the excess off after about 30 minutes.
haha. Deadly poisonous wood used for residential flooring/decking. Hes right, mabye you should send a 3' long piece to me and I'll see how it goes. You can never be too safe. haha
tinyguitars said:
No, you don't want to use ipe for your necks. In fact that stuff is actually deadly poisonous! You should pack it all up and send it to me and I'll take care of it for you! Heheheehee!
I use Padouk exclusively myself. May try some purpleheart next.
Here's some info...
1. Ipe dust is very, very fine. It gets over and into everything - clothes, body hair, tools. Dust this fine is essentially electrostatically bound to surfaces, so it takes a determined effort to remove it.
2. Ipe dust contains silica, which is partially responsible for its harshness to tools. Very fine dust containing silica is life threatening. Ask any coal miner or, in Minnesota here, iron miner, what happens when you're exposed to silica containing dust on a regular basis.
3. Because the dust is so fine it may not be completely filtered by our dust collection and air filtration systems. (Dr. Gene, any opinions on this one?)
4. Some people may not initially react strongly to ipe. This is bad, because you're still getting the silica laden dust into your lungs. Your body's allergic reactions are nature's ways of telling you there's danger.
Replies
StarGeezers said:
StarGeezers said:
On some oily woods , you almost don't need any finish at all , the natural oils protecting the wood from your oils ... for an easy durable finish , we like Burchwood Casey Tru-Oil gunstock finish ... wipe it on or rub it in with your fingers, let it dry overnight , repeat with several coats with a little smoothing with 0000 steel wool in between coats ... after 4-5 coats you'll have a nice glossy finish ... very similar to a nice poly finish ... after a week , you can buff it out to a high polish ...
If you're building quite a few CBGs , then some kind of dust collection system would be prudent... for one or two , I'd just do the sanding bits outside ...
I've mixed a large bucket of finish that works pretty well and is a little more durable than the boiled linseed oil by itself. Take 1 gallon of Boiled Linseed Oil, 1 gallon of Mineral Spirits and a quart of "good" clear varnish and mix it in a sealable 5 gallon bucket. The cool thing about this finish is, for small pieces you just dunk em then put it on a piece of chicken wire and wipe the excess off after about 30 minutes.
Good luck.
tinyguitars said:
Here's some info...
1. Ipe dust is very, very fine. It gets over and into everything - clothes, body hair, tools. Dust this fine is essentially electrostatically bound to surfaces, so it takes a determined effort to remove it.
2. Ipe dust contains silica, which is partially responsible for its harshness to tools. Very fine dust containing silica is life threatening. Ask any coal miner or, in Minnesota here, iron miner, what happens when you're exposed to silica containing dust on a regular basis.
3. Because the dust is so fine it may not be completely filtered by our dust collection and air filtration systems. (Dr. Gene, any opinions on this one?)
4. Some people may not initially react strongly to ipe. This is bad, because you're still getting the silica laden dust into your lungs. Your body's allergic reactions are nature's ways of telling you there's danger.
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