I feel like I hit the jackpot when I visited the cigar store the other day. They had this God Of Fire box, in really nice shape too. It is deep red, with gold lettering. I think I want to make this one a little nicer than the ones I normally make, and don't mind putting a few extra bucks and time into it. I am mostly debating on the neck, for starters. Paint, no paint? Stain, if so, what color? Cherry? I dunno. It is kind of thin, only 1.5 inches deep, so the acoustics may be a little towards the treble side.
I have some brass corner pieces that will look awesome on it! See the pics below.
Waddya think, I am open for suggestions.
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i drilled a hole right through the seam, then took a little more out of the bottom so the jack nut tightens only on the lid side so the box still opens ok. good luck with the build iggy
Iggy said:
Merle, It looks like the jack is mounted right on the seam. How did you get it to stay put?
c# merle said:
this box seems about the same size as yours (though no where near as pretty). made an electric with it sounds suprisingly loud played acoustic, you never can tell till you hear it.
the jack is connected to the lid only so the box can still open.
Iggy said:
Actually, expanding the box is not a bad idea. As I was looking at it, I can't really put the 1/4 jack on the side because the sides are not wide enough, so I had sort of resigned myself to putting it either on the lid or the bottom.
Neckwise, I am now leaning towards using poplar for the neck, and staining it as close to black as I can, then put a red oak fingerboard on it, and leave the fingerboard natural. I have some scraps lying around, so I can make a short little mockup to see what it will look like.
Merle, It looks like the jack is mounted right on the seam. How did you get it to stay put?
c# merle said:
this box seems about the same size as yours (though no where near as pretty). made an electric with it sounds suprisingly loud played acoustic, you never can tell till you hear it.
the jack is connected to the lid only so the box can still open.
Iggy said:
Actually, expanding the box is not a bad idea. As I was looking at it, I can't really put the 1/4 jack on the side because the sides are not wide enough, so I had sort of resigned myself to putting it either on the lid or the bottom.
Neckwise, I am now leaning towards using poplar for the neck, and staining it as close to black as I can, then put a red oak fingerboard on it, and leave the fingerboard natural. I have some scraps lying around, so I can make a short little mockup to see what it will look like.
this box seems about the same size as yours (though no where near as pretty). made an electric with it sounds suprisingly loud played acoustic, you never can tell till you hear it. the jack is connected to the lid only so the box can still open.
Iggy said:
Actually, expanding the box is not a bad idea. As I was looking at it, I can't really put the 1/4 jack on the side because the sides are not wide enough, so I had sort of resigned myself to putting it either on the lid or the bottom.
Neckwise, I am now leaning towards using poplar for the neck, and staining it as close to black as I can, then put a red oak fingerboard on it, and leave the fingerboard natural. I have some scraps lying around, so I can make a short little mockup to see what it will look like.
Actually, expanding the box is not a bad idea. As I was looking at it, I can't really put the 1/4 jack on the side because the sides are not wide enough, so I had sort of resigned myself to putting it either on the lid or the bottom.
Neckwise, I am now leaning towards using poplar for the neck, and staining it as close to black as I can, then put a red oak fingerboard on it, and leave the fingerboard natural. I have some scraps lying around, so I can make a short little mockup to see what it will look like.
Hey guys, if I understand Paul here, take the box apart -- lid to bottom and add in some depth with 'spacers'. Perhaps like Paul says, some 1" strips or even use old box sides or 1/4" pressboard glued to the inside of the lid and bottom to extend them out. Paint it a contrasting or similar color so it looks right.
-WY
Paul Doug said:
I had one of those boxes, but gave it away because it was so thin. Now I thinking that the next time I have one like that I will detach the top, glue a 1" or so piece of wood that goes berween the bottom and the top to make a deeper box. It should work and you can paint it the samee color as the rest of the box (or not). It's been on my list of things to try.
I had one of those boxes, but gave it away because it was so thin. Now I thinking that the next time I have one like that I will detach the top, glue a 1" or so piece of wood that goes berween the bottom and the top to make a deeper box. It should work and you can paint it the samee color as the rest of the box (or not). It's been on my list of things to try.
Poplar I would not suggest in your case. Maple like Sam says. If you're gonna paint it, use a lower grade maple (not expensive).
You don't have to seal the grain on poplar like you would on oak. Its just a soft, fine grain wood. Sand it with 600 or 1200 grit paper. If you want a smooth finish, try spraying with multiple coats of lacquer, and I have even heard of some using Krylon. I would say away from Polyurethanes [I used to use it but have found it to retain some 'stickiness'. That is, you're hands won't slide as well].
If you're gonna clear coat it, I suggest unwaxed shellac or tung oil. Makes a real great shiny finish.
-WY
Iggy said:
I was actually toying with making it with a bolt-on neck, with the neck connected to the back of the box instead of the lid, and putting bracing inside to beef up the structure. That would also let me adjust the action a bit if I needed to shim the neck a bit. I am kind of leaning towards a 4 string model at this point. I have been using red oak for the necks, but if I paint the back of the neck, then I was thinking of using poplar instead, adding adding the fingerboard, and then filling in the poplar grain with sanding sealer so I can get a smooth, black finish on it.
I was actually toying with making it with a bolt-on neck, with the neck connected to the back of the box instead of the lid, and putting bracing inside to beef up the structure. That would also let me adjust the action a bit if I needed to shim the neck a bit.
I am kind of leaning towards a 4 string model at this point.
I have been using red oak for the necks, but if I paint the back of the neck, then I was thinking of using poplar instead, adding adding the fingerboard, and then filling in the poplar grain with sanding sealer so I can get a smooth, black finish on it.
Replies
Iggy said:
c# merle said:
Iggy said:Neckwise, I am now leaning towards using poplar for the neck, and staining it as close to black as I can, then put a red oak fingerboard on it, and leave the fingerboard natural. I have some scraps lying around, so I can make a short little mockup to see what it will look like.
Hey guys, if I understand Paul here, take the box apart -- lid to bottom and add in some depth with 'spacers'. Perhaps like Paul says, some 1" strips or even use old box sides or 1/4" pressboard glued to the inside of the lid and bottom to extend them out. Paint it a contrasting or similar color so it looks right.
-WY
Paul Doug said:
You don't have to seal the grain on poplar like you would on oak. Its just a soft, fine grain wood. Sand it with 600 or 1200 grit paper. If you want a smooth finish, try spraying with multiple coats of lacquer, and I have even heard of some using Krylon. I would say away from Polyurethanes [I used to use it but have found it to retain some 'stickiness'. That is, you're hands won't slide as well].
If you're gonna clear coat it, I suggest unwaxed shellac or tung oil. Makes a real great shiny finish.
-WY
Iggy said:
I realize it is cheap, but how good is this Chinese lipstick pup likely to be? I think the gold would look nice with the box.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Artec-Alnico-5-Lipstick-Single-Coil-Strat-Picku...
Well, never mind. This one would sit too high. The box is too shallow. Continuing the search.
I am kind of leaning towards a 4 string model at this point.
I have been using red oak for the necks, but if I paint the back of the neck, then I was thinking of using poplar instead, adding adding the fingerboard, and then filling in the poplar grain with sanding sealer so I can get a smooth, black finish on it.
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