I'm still pretty new....but thought I would ask how you level your necks and thought I would share what works for me.  What I did first building was to sand the neck until it looked level and run a straight edge across it.... only to see light..... I found I was ALWAYS chasing the light.  So I took a standard 2 foot metal level (carpenters level) and topped it with painters tape (wrapping the excess tape over the sides of the level).... Then I used the level as a template to cut strips of sandpaper the same width as the level. I then use contact cement (dap weldwwod brand) and brush it onto the painter tape.  I then align the sandpaper (usually 2 strips) and set it on top, I add some weight to it for a half hour and wella I have a flat sanding surface.  At first I add some pressure to get the neck close, once there I take a sharpie and do wavy's down the neck and just let the pressure and weight of the level to do the rest.  Once the sandpaper is beyond it's use I simply take the tape off, the level is unaffected and I can just repeat as needed......

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  • For starters, I'm picky about the wood is used for a neck. Usually just need a few passes with an old jointer plane. (22" of cast iron) With the neck flat, the fretboard rarely needs much attention other than a little sanding. If I have fret issues, then yeah, sandpaper on a level.
  • P.S. if you bump some day into an old lithographic limestone printing plate so try to get it: they are absolutely level under any climatic condition.

  • 306599356?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

    Aluminum profile is 50mm to 20mm, 2mm thick, I have them with different length, long wedges demo only

  • That's what I use, except I use the sticky back sandpaper, two grits. One on one side of the straight edge and fine grit on the other. I also have a number of different length straight edge's for "spot" levelling.
    Cheers Taff
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