What are some typical finishes for the neck? I've got a CBG and a fretless bass - it was fretted, now it's not. Something to keep the grime off, maybe add a little color. Is basic wood stain okay?
Greg
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I like it fast & simple. I normally finish my necks, etc. with 4-5 light coats of Deft clear gloss. Fingerboards: sometimes tung oil, sometimes just olive oil.
It depends on what kind of wood you're talking about. If it's rosewood, I use Johnson's paste wax occasionally, and that's it. Rosewood doesn't need to be finished. If it's maple, then the finishes described by the other posters should be ok.
Traditionally, maple boards are sprayed with the same finish used on the rest of the guitar - so nitrocellulose lacquer, polyurethane, etc.
You'll most likely get lots of replies to this thread, but generally speaking, just about any wood stain is fine for coloring the wood.
As for a finish, my favorite finish is Tru-Oil. It's made for gun stocks, but it's magnificent on CBG necks and fretboards. It's tough, easy to apply, readily available at most hardware and sporting goods stores, and priced reasonably.
The way I apply it is to use a foam brush and several rags made of old t-shirt.
The first coat, after the piece is stained and allowed to dry, I apply a liberal coat with the foam brush, let it sit for 15 minutes, then wipe off the excess. Then hang the piece to dry for 2 hours. Brush on another coat, then immediately wipe off the excess. Hang it to dry for another 2 hours. Third coat and beyond I apply with a t-shirt rag, rubbing the oil on in a circular motion. Rub it on, wipe off the excess, let it hang and dry for 2 hours. I do 5 or 6 coats total this way, then let it hang for 2 or 3 days to cure completely. Once you get to the third coat, you'll see the piece start to really shine, and "deepen" if that makes any sense.
Once the piece has cured for a few days, the finish is durned near bullet proof, and it looks like you polished, worked, and sweated over it. Only you will know you just rubbed it on, wiped it off, and let it dry. In fact, it took me longer to type this than it does to do a coat.
Good luck!
Thanks for the advice, I went with the Tru Oil method on top of stain and put Tru Oil on the fretless to protect it.
Tru-oil has become my new favorite finish. If I'm doing something I really want slick and smooth, I'll apply the last 2 coats of Tru-Oil with some 0000 steel wool, depending on the wood. I don't use it on oak or any other wood with a high tannin content that'll react to the steel. I dip the steel wool in the Tru-Oil and GENTLY rub it on, going with the grain. On the last coat, I wipe off the excess and rub it down really well with a clean rag, and hang it to dry for 3 or 4 days to really cure untouched. It comes out smooth as glass. I've never waxed a neck or fret board, but I've used good old Johnson's Paste Wax on some of the weaving tools I've made for my wife with this finish, and they just glow. Smooth, slick, and gorgeous.
For the entire time I've played guitar I've always just used lemon oil on the fret board.
My latest build I'm finishing the fret board with some Minwax Tung Oil Finish. It pops the grain better and will hopefully seal it to keep the grime out of the grain.