Danish oil is the stuff as far as I can see. Maybe not cheap, but it goes a long way so it ends up not much per build. Easy to use and has great neck feel,
Stain the wood, let it dry. Rub it lightly with extra fine steel wool. Put your tung oil directly over the stain and follow the directions on the can. I actually prefer tung oil finish to just plain tung oil for a neck but I have used both on various wood projects including guitar necks.
When I finish a neck, I tape off the top surface of a fingerboard/fretboard to prevent the finish from getting on that surface. Then I will apply linseed oil to the fingerboard surface. Just me.
if you put a finish on the fingerboard, you will be ok. I have put a finish (polyurethane) and have regretted it. I would put a non-sealing oil based finish on the top surface. I usually put frets on my instruments and apply copious amounts of lemon oil like would be on an acoustic guitar so the wood doesn't dry out and frets start popping off. I would put something that will allow the wood to absorb some natural oils.
-WY
Scotty C. said:
I assume most of this advice is for the neck, but what about the fingerboard? Is there a need to add some kind of polish there?
Two Words: TRU OIL for gun stocks (look in the gun/hunting section of the store). A little bit goes a long ways, I apply 7 to 10 coats AND you can add another coat every 2 hours (just use steel wool in between coats). I have tried the Tung Oil, Urethane and Polyurethane and I like Tru Oil the best.
Two Words: TRU OIL for gun stocks (look in the gun/hunting section of the store). A little bit goes a long ways, I apply 7 to 10 coats AND you can add another coat every 2 hours (just use steel wool in between coats). I have tried the Tung Oil, Urethane and Polyurethane and I like Tru Oil the best.
i have 2 ways, both super cheap..
for really hard wood i sand to 600, then i finish with vegetable oil from the kitchen and newspaper.. comes up great..
for softer woods that are a little spongy i finish with really cheap suer glue, the thin liquid stuff. I get 8 little tubes for $2, just do a little patch at a time and rub it right in with a rag..
You can't go wrong with Birchwood Casey's TRU OIL. Wet sand in the first coat to fill the grain and let it set-up for 24 hours. After that, additional coats will dry in a couple of hours.
Michael/Saxismyaxe said:
As far as neck finishes go, I prefer Birchwood Casey's TRU OIL, a gun stock clear finish, for my necks. It provides a nice satin "French polish" like finish which I prefer, and is pretty much fool proof to apply.
Replies
hope this helps.
Brian Hunt.
if you put a finish on the fingerboard, you will be ok. I have put a finish (polyurethane) and have regretted it. I would put a non-sealing oil based finish on the top surface. I usually put frets on my instruments and apply copious amounts of lemon oil like would be on an acoustic guitar so the wood doesn't dry out and frets start popping off. I would put something that will allow the wood to absorb some natural oils.
-WY
Scotty C. said:
Mike Willmouth said:
for really hard wood i sand to 600, then i finish with vegetable oil from the kitchen and newspaper.. comes up great..
for softer woods that are a little spongy i finish with really cheap suer glue, the thin liquid stuff. I get 8 little tubes for $2, just do a little patch at a time and rub it right in with a rag..
Michael/Saxismyaxe said:
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