Moritz Voegeli > jose garcia paredesFebruary 7, 2017 at 1:51pm
1. position the bridge so that the distance from zero fret to bridge is twice the distance from zero fret to twelfth fret, then correct the position of the bridge with a digital tuner: flat means «to low», sharp means «to high»:
2. on the low string, play the octave at the twelfth fret: if the octave is sharp, augment the distance from zero fret to the bridge on the side of the low string only, otherwise shorten the distance;
3. do the same with the high string but adjusting the bridge on the side of the high string only
4. now the bridge will be somewhat slanted from orthogonal on the soundboard;
4. check the octave of the middle string: mostly it will be sharp for a straight bridge; to correct this you would craft a more sophisticated bridge:
zero fret for experts: from the lowest fret to the fifth approximately notes are typically a sharp, specially on the first fret of an unwound thin high string which bends more when fretted than the thicker ones: you can correct this a bit experimenting first with a loose fret:
Paul Craig > Moritz VoegeliFebruary 7, 2017 at 3:01pm
The nut/zero fret should always stay straight across the fretboard. Moving the nut/zero fret will put the other frets off when it comes to intonation.
The bridge should be moved 3mm forward towards the neck on the high/treble side and moved 3mm backwards toward the rear on the low/bass side to ensure all strings will have correct intonation.
Taffy Evans > Paul CraigFebruary 7, 2017 at 6:04pm
Hi, nuts can also be compensated and are readily available made that way. It allows for more actuate tuning when playing lower part of the neck. I have fitted quite a few.
Taff
Paul Craig > Taffy EvansFebruary 7, 2017 at 6:27pm
Moving the nut/zero fret will make all the frets off key.
This wouldn't matter on a fretless, but with frets already installed, moving the nut would change the needed positions of all the frets. This is why compensation is done at the bridge.
Replies
Taff.
thanks!
very thanks! ;)
before adjusting the bridge for intonation, yes
Can you explain it more extensively?
1. position the bridge so that the distance from zero fret to bridge is twice the distance from zero fret to twelfth fret, then correct the position of the bridge with a digital tuner: flat means «to low», sharp means «to high»:
2. on the low string, play the octave at the twelfth fret: if the octave is sharp, augment the distance from zero fret to the bridge on the side of the low string only, otherwise shorten the distance;
3. do the same with the high string but adjusting the bridge on the side of the high string only
4. now the bridge will be somewhat slanted from orthogonal on the soundboard;
4. check the octave of the middle string: mostly it will be sharp for a straight bridge; to correct this you would craft a more sophisticated bridge:
zero fret for experts: from the lowest fret to the fifth approximately notes are typically a sharp, specially on the first fret of an unwound thin high string which bends more when fretted than the thicker ones: you can correct this a bit experimenting first with a loose fret:
The nut/zero fret should always stay straight across the fretboard. Moving the nut/zero fret will put the other frets off when it comes to intonation.
The bridge should be moved 3mm forward towards the neck on the high/treble side and moved 3mm backwards toward the rear on the low/bass side to ensure all strings will have correct intonation.
Taff
Moving the nut/zero fret will make all the frets off key.
This wouldn't matter on a fretless, but with frets already installed, moving the nut would change the needed positions of all the frets. This is why compensation is done at the bridge.
Yep, you got it. From the crown on the fret where the string touches it.