So I had not watched Dr Who since its first go around I looked up CyberMen yep Wayfarer was right!
I finished it yesterday or so I thought. With knobs and pickup it lost some CyberMan looks but still made me laugh. Good then bad. My ,pickup sounded great it was 8005 turns of #42 , three 5/16" x 1/8" super magnets below 1/4 -28 x 3/4 hardened set screws for pole pcs. Wax dipped and cu foil shielded.. The bad.......I should have thought about mounting before I wound it . I mounted it with washers that clamp down on the edge. The next mistake ...with the 4 fret less cbg's I just did a quick eyeball of the neck stock it was all dead flat when done with a contrasting fret less board 1/4" glued on . I glued them on edge using spring clamps. I had used oak and maple 1x2 from Menards . CyberMan got hickory and when I was picking the stock a lot of them were wavy I picked one that had a slight bend in the last 8" thinking I'll cut that end.....time passed and I forgot about the bend you know were this is going I cut the scarfed head end on the wrong end of the board and glued on the neatest pc of teak with a wavy light dark pattern and got it all done and fretted and strung before the problem buzzed me up so to speak .
Tearing it down to pull some frets to see if I can salvage the neck. Darn
Gary
A sad tale, but one that I think every one of us can match (or quietly hide). During the many steps necessary to go from a pile of wood, boxes and hardware, it's just so easy make a wrong cut, glue something misaligned, install a tuner, etc.
I've gotten to the point that I create a list of each step I need to take on a build as well as notes about what to watch our for (based on prior mistakes). At the very least, the list makes me slow down and think before I make a cut or whatever.
Every time I complete a build, I know all the little "adjustments" I had to make along the line because of little errors. They may have no impact on the tone or playability, but I know about them and try to learn for future builds. That is becoming my favorite parts of builds. I know I'm learning and it will help me to become a better craftsman.
BTW I've given up on gluing down fret boards. Three brass wood screws hold it nicely and looks good.
Thanks for sharing your tale. We can all learn from it.
There may be merit in only screwing the fretboard to the neck...it can be removed in case of need for future adjustments, for example. But in doing so, the benefit of a glued fb is lost. Keeping the fb set while clamps and glue work against your wishes can be remedied with the aformentioned screws. Which also work well as fret position markers too. In gluing the fb, the neck is reinforced to help counteract back bow...not that this is a constant problem in the short term. Also, the bond of fb and neck means all points make equal contact and vibrate as a team.
Gary Ross > Scott aka Farmer TedDecember 28, 2014 at 11:22am
I just tore it don and removed the frets a couple of shops in town have platen sanders may ask a favor or just do it on my belt sander. The last 8 inches or so bowed down a little over 1/16 inch. Well more orders for Ben. At least I made the fretboard about 3/8" so I've got room to play ang it will take out the tear out from removing the frets.
A helpful tip for reducing or eliminating tear out when removing frets: after cutting fret slots & before installing frets, use a triangular needle file and "v" notch the top of the slots slightly...not deep, rather just slightly widen the very top of the slot at the fb surface. This won't hinder the fret tangs from biting securely into the slots, and if by chance a mistake is made, the fret(s) can be removed without harm/tear out.
Cheers.
Gary Ross > Scott aka Farmer TedDecember 30, 2014 at 12:37am
Thanks Scott I was pretty lucky and the tear outs slight but I will do the v befor I put the new frets in. Went to the carpenters shop at lunch time and used an edge sander to take out the bow. Ordered more parts from CB Gitty and the Shark saw listed in the tools page. Very nice of Ben to recommend a saw that he doesn't even sell.
Replies
A sad tale, but one that I think every one of us can match (or quietly hide). During the many steps necessary to go from a pile of wood, boxes and hardware, it's just so easy make a wrong cut, glue something misaligned, install a tuner, etc.
I've gotten to the point that I create a list of each step I need to take on a build as well as notes about what to watch our for (based on prior mistakes). At the very least, the list makes me slow down and think before I make a cut or whatever.
Every time I complete a build, I know all the little "adjustments" I had to make along the line because of little errors. They may have no impact on the tone or playability, but I know about them and try to learn for future builds. That is becoming my favorite parts of builds. I know I'm learning and it will help me to become a better craftsman.
BTW I've given up on gluing down fret boards. Three brass wood screws hold it nicely and looks good.
Thanks for sharing your tale. We can all learn from it.
There may be merit in only screwing the fretboard to the neck...it can be removed in case of need for future adjustments, for example. But in doing so, the benefit of a glued fb is lost. Keeping the fb set while clamps and glue work against your wishes can be remedied with the aformentioned screws. Which also work well as fret position markers too. In gluing the fb, the neck is reinforced to help counteract back bow...not that this is a constant problem in the short term. Also, the bond of fb and neck means all points make equal contact and vibrate as a team.
A helpful tip for reducing or eliminating tear out when removing frets: after cutting fret slots & before installing frets, use a triangular needle file and "v" notch the top of the slots slightly...not deep, rather just slightly widen the very top of the slot at the fb surface. This won't hinder the fret tangs from biting securely into the slots, and if by chance a mistake is made, the fret(s) can be removed without harm/tear out.
Cheers.