Adding the fretboard questions for a newbie to building CBGs

I recently had a YouTube video sent to me in which the builder made a statement that confuses me a bit, as I see so many times when builders all seem to say there is no wrong or right way to build a CBG or that there are hundreds of ways to build them. I am not wanting to step on anyone's toes about their skills or knowledge base as to building these things, as I certainly am nothing but a newbie to the art, but the builder made the statement that the fret board had to be above the level of the box. In reviewing the thousands of photos at this site (Not fully through with all of them at this point), I see lots of photos of CBGs that don't have the fretboard above the level of the box. Does that mean that they are all built incorrectly?

I have three CBGs in various stages of builds at present. I have no prior experience in building them, either. I am interested in making mine correct enough to the point that I don't have to go back and chuck a box or a neck because I didn't do something correctly. So, this statement sort of confused me when I looked at all the various photos of boxes that are shown at this site. I see several that just don't show that to be the case that a fret board has to be above the level of the box.

In addition, not every CBG shown had an angle to the neck. (Not speaking of the head stock). I realize that some compensation can be made from how tall the bridge is, where it is located on the box, how large the nut is, how high the tail piece rises to angle the stings to the bridge and if there is enough of an angle to the headstock or beyond the nut to angle the strings for proper alignment and tension. All these factors probably have a role in making a great sounding CBG vs one that has a buzz or such, but is it also true that the neck must always be at an angle on these boxes? Again, in looking at all the thousands of photos, not every one of them shows this. It may be the angle of the photo though, so I don't rule that out.

I may have misinterpreted just what the builder stated, but I don't think so. I am wanting to hear other's take on it to see if it is a given or not. Any thoughts on the above?

Like say, I can go back and make some adjustments to the neck if really necessary in my three boxes at this point. I am resistant in doing so until I find out if it is really necessary though. I am at the point on each where I need to do some shaping of the neck and then apply the strings, bridges and nuts. If I do have to make my fret boards higher than the box, then that may take some additional wood being cut and glued to do so. I'd prefer not to have to do that at this point, but if necessary, I can do it. I am just wanting a good final product that is playable without a buzz caused by any building mistake on my part.

Thanks for any info on this.

Some neck back angle can be helpful in getting a low action for fretted necks. You only need a couple of degrees, so I doubt, given the angles of most of the pics here, if you can even discern from the photo alone whether a neck has any back angle at all. I have a couple of 4 stringers from other builders that have almost no back angle (in fact, one of them had a slight neck bow, rendering it almost unplayable above the 10th fret, but fortunately, the builder used a 4 bolt bolt-on neck, so I was able to reduce the bow, by putting in a shim to also get some back angle, and this lowered the action to where I like it, and the strings didn't fret out.). Neck back angle, plus a raised fretboard, allows for a taller bridge, resulting in better string vibration transfer to the top. But the first one I did, even though it had a slight back angle, resulted in fret outs all over the place, because I used finishing nails for frets, which I never could get perfectly level, and my fretboard was right even with the box top. That one did not have a separate fret board; the frets were attached directly to the neck. So it became a slider. ;-)

Replies

ReturnToSender September 24, 2014 at 9:50am

When fretting my boards, after the frets are in place, the board tends to bow backwards slightly, which I like because when the board is then applied to the neck, it will flatten and "squeeze" the frets in their slots. And, like Wayfinder said, if you botch the board before it's on the neck, it's less annoying.
wormil September 24, 2014 at 3:32am

I didn't use any neck angle in my first two and they are a whole lot less fun to play because of it. The third has about 2 degrees of angle but it's enough and makes all the difference.

As for the fretboard, above, even, whatever you want. I put mine above because that's how most guitars are built but there are instruments that have the fretboard even with the body and sometimes frets on the body itself.

My advice and take it for what it costs, watch luthier videos (there are plenty on youtube) and learn how guitars are built then bring that back and apply what you can to CBGs.
Dan Sleep September 21, 2014 at 8:24pm

Here is what I have to say about fretting and fretboards. Just to add to what has already been stated...

http://www.cigarboxnation.com/video/how-to-fret-a-neck
Ron "Oily" Sprague September 21, 2014 at 3:46pm

Some neck back angle can be helpful in getting a low action for fretted necks. You only need a couple of degrees, so I doubt, given the angles of most of the pics here, if you can even discern from the photo alone whether a neck has any back angle at all. I have a couple of 4 stringers from other builders that have almost no back angle (in fact, one of them had a slight neck bow, rendering it almost unplayable above the 10th fret, but fortunately, the builder used a 4 bolt bolt-on neck, so I was able to reduce the bow, by putting in a shim to also get some back angle, and this lowered the action to where I like it, and the strings didn't fret out.). Neck back angle, plus a raised fretboard, allows for a taller bridge, resulting in better string vibration transfer to the top. But the first one I did, even though it had a slight back angle, resulted in fret outs all over the place, because I used finishing nails for frets, which I never could get perfectly level, and my fretboard was right even with the box top. That one did not have a separate fret board; the frets were attached directly to the neck. So it became a slider. ;-)
James Huey September 21, 2014 at 1:43pm

I called it the fretboard in my post, but the builder in the video calls it a fingerboard. Hope the terminology is the same. This was in regards to string height adjustments.

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