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Permalink Reply by JD on December 31, 2019 at 6:40am

I think there is a certain aesthetic appeal to using the 2/3 or 3/4 formula. My gut tells me that the middle of the box would have maximum resonance but that might be compromised if you end up with less string break from the tailpiece.  I say stick with the 2/3, 3/4 formula.

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on December 31, 2019 at 6:52am

Are you fretted or fretless? If your fretless then forget about the 25.5 scale length. Put the saddle where it sounds the best. Simply put. The 25.5 scale length means the half way point on your neck would be at 12 3/4 inches. If you move your saddle in two inches your half way point would then be 11 3/4 inches. And a better sounding box. A Fender mini or 3/4 size guitar has a scale length of 22 3/4. 

If your committed to a 25 1/2 scale then your bridge has to be right at that mark. 

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Permalink Reply by Rough Cut Guitars on December 31, 2019 at 11:28am

Happy New Year Jon! I've learned for acoustic response 1/2 to 2/3 (from the neck join end) is best. Like JD said, this allows the most resonance from the top - remember: guitars are basically air pumps, and the pressure of the bridge elicits the most 'spring' from the top (think trampoline) which pumps the most air to the back and forward again. In addition to this, I use standard guitar-building techniques including a  2-degree neck (back) angle. On a 24-1/2" scale set up for medium-medium frets that puts the saddle height at the top 'e' string at about 5/8". I also do a 15-degree scarf angle headstock and that plus whatever I do with the tailpiece gives enough break angle. Now all that said, I've never had it be a problem on full-on electric builds to have the bridge further back. My struggle is that I like guitar neck to body proportion and this isn't usually possible on full scale builds and I hate having a ton of neck hanging off the box - plus that poses a real risk to neck stability - so unless I've got a nice big bix, I try to compromise optimal bridge placement with proportion aesthetics. I'm, shall we say, pretty meticulous and always do a detail plan drawing of every build and one of the most valuable lessons I ever learned was to start the drawing with the string - what it's all about when you think about it - and work down to the fingerboard, neck, and box. This helped me understand the principles at work so clearly. Good luck!

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Permalink Reply by Timothy Hunter on January 4, 2020 at 5:20pm

i usually put the bridge 1/3rd of the way in tha box. so to use round figures for a 12" box the bridge will be around 4" from the edge. then measure the 25 1/2 " from there to get the neck length needed.. gives enough room for a sound hole if you want one like a trad guitar or put holes in the corners like most do.

i say around because depending on string guage the bridge will be slanted and moved slightly to get intonation correct.

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Permalink Reply by Paul scofield on January 5, 2020 at 7:39am

Where you put the saddle will effect the intonation . You tune it with open strings then as you go up the neck pressing down the guitar could be out of tune . By moving the bridge back or forward this can be rectified ,and quite likely also a sweet spot . Just something to keep in mind.

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