Yes, it does say 1 watt, however the Datasheet from NTE site says it’s only rated 250-325mw? NTE is well known for its inconsistent info BTW? But at any rate, it doesn’t matter what the wattage, it can be used to make an amp? Maybe you should purchase a Solderless Breadboard until you can develop your soldering skills? Stripboard & a Breadboard are layed out the same, so the layout would work? You’re not the first to come up with zilch, I wired half stuff backwards & had horrible solder globs on my first pedals/amps?
Southern Ray > BrianQ.September 27, 2020 at 8:56pm
Thank you for the info and more importantly, the encouragement! I have rebuilt motorcycle racing engines. I have rebuilt Mopar engines. I have built parts that are in space. I have built medical parts that are in some people's brains, but I can't do this? Yeh, I can do this. I just need to stop being a wanker.
I finally took a picture of the package of the NTE823. Can you tell me what the 1W indicates? I am trying to get my head around this, I've never been a quitter, but I have just about given up on this hobby. I've spent too much money, built one good, working amp out of at least six tries and destroyed it trying to install it into a cabinet. I don't mean to be a wanker, but I've never had this much trouble learning and doing anything before.
Wheeze... (Cocking head to side in defiance) Alright! Tomorrow is another day... I WILL do this!
Thank you Brian. I looked at that data sheet you showed today. I told the guy at the electronics shop that I wanted some LM386 N3s and he gave me these saying they were the same. I trusted him as he seemed to know what he was doing. He is the owner after all. I should have stuck with my theory: Owners and managers are usually the most clueless of workers in stores nowadays. I did see the 1 watt reference SOMEWHERE, might have been the little baggies they came in, but I know I saw it.
My main problem seems to be getting the solder to stick to the copper on the veroboard/stripboard. Any ideas?
You could always bridge two of them to double the power? Or use them for a distortion box. I always try to check for specs online real quick to make sure it’s something I can use? I’ve bought many useless amp tubes & so forth. Using the right solder tip, coupled with the right heat is ideal, but solder bridges happen so easily & most of the time not recognized by the naked eye, but it’s usually touching something it shouldn’t or not touching something it should. Just take your time & double check your work as you go. I’ve had many dead circuits before getting it right.
Thank you Brian. I guess you are probably right about the solder bridges. My soldering leaves a lot to be desired. My tip may be a bit too big as well, but then again, I took the same guy's advise on this iron...
It’s a surplus version of an LM386N-1, basically a recategorized chip, that’s slipped from its original specs? I don’t buy NTE components simply because they’re surplus, and they charge a premium price? surplus parts are usually stuff that has been sitting around somewhere wasting away or didn’t match original build specs? BTW, only 125-250mW, less than half a watt, so not the best for driving a speaker?
Grrreeeeaaaaaaaaatt. I bought a half-dozen of them for about $3 each from a local electronics store. Bear in mind I live in the most expensive dump of a town I've ever experienced.
I read somewhere that it was good for a watt. Oh well. Just another nail in my enthusiasm for my new-found hobby. (Quite possible to soon my former hobby...) This is eating my lunch. I'm pretty good at larger soldering but this is killing me. I built one good one that sounded pretty decent until I messed it up installing it in the cabinet. Tried two more. Nothing. I think I have made every single mistake possible in this in spite of being very careful and studying this maddening activity in depth and in spite of all the great help from all of you. I still suck at this. Grrrr.
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Mouser, Jameco, Arrow, Farnell, Digi-key, eBay, Amazon,etc.
Yes, it does say 1 watt, however the Datasheet from NTE site says it’s only rated 250-325mw? NTE is well known for its inconsistent info BTW? But at any rate, it doesn’t matter what the wattage, it can be used to make an amp? Maybe you should purchase a Solderless Breadboard until you can develop your soldering skills? Stripboard & a Breadboard are layed out the same, so the layout would work? You’re not the first to come up with zilch, I wired half stuff backwards & had horrible solder globs on my first pedals/amps?
Thank you for the info and more importantly, the encouragement! I have rebuilt motorcycle racing engines. I have rebuilt Mopar engines. I have built parts that are in space. I have built medical parts that are in some people's brains, but I can't do this? Yeh, I can do this. I just need to stop being a wanker.
Thank you Brian!
I finally took a picture of the package of the NTE823. Can you tell me what the 1W indicates? I am trying to get my head around this, I've never been a quitter, but I have just about given up on this hobby. I've spent too much money, built one good, working amp out of at least six tries and destroyed it trying to install it into a cabinet. I don't mean to be a wanker, but I've never had this much trouble learning and doing anything before.
Wheeze... (Cocking head to side in defiance) Alright! Tomorrow is another day... I WILL do this!
Thank you Brian. I looked at that data sheet you showed today. I told the guy at the electronics shop that I wanted some LM386 N3s and he gave me these saying they were the same. I trusted him as he seemed to know what he was doing. He is the owner after all. I should have stuck with my theory: Owners and managers are usually the most clueless of workers in stores nowadays. I did see the 1 watt reference SOMEWHERE, might have been the little baggies they came in, but I know I saw it.
My main problem seems to be getting the solder to stick to the copper on the veroboard/stripboard. Any ideas?
Thanks again
You could always bridge two of them to double the power? Or use them for a distortion box. I always try to check for specs online real quick to make sure it’s something I can use? I’ve bought many useless amp tubes & so forth. Using the right solder tip, coupled with the right heat is ideal, but solder bridges happen so easily & most of the time not recognized by the naked eye, but it’s usually touching something it shouldn’t or not touching something it should. Just take your time & double check your work as you go. I’ve had many dead circuits before getting it right.
Thank you Brian. I guess you are probably right about the solder bridges. My soldering leaves a lot to be desired. My tip may be a bit too big as well, but then again, I took the same guy's advise on this iron...
It’s a surplus version of an LM386N-1, basically a recategorized chip, that’s slipped from its original specs? I don’t buy NTE components simply because they’re surplus, and they charge a premium price? surplus parts are usually stuff that has been sitting around somewhere wasting away or didn’t match original build specs? BTW, only 125-250mW, less than half a watt, so not the best for driving a speaker?
Grrreeeeaaaaaaaaatt. I bought a half-dozen of them for about $3 each from a local electronics store. Bear in mind I live in the most expensive dump of a town I've ever experienced.
I read somewhere that it was good for a watt. Oh well. Just another nail in my enthusiasm for my new-found hobby. (Quite possible to soon my former hobby...) This is eating my lunch. I'm pretty good at larger soldering but this is killing me. I built one good one that sounded pretty decent until I messed it up installing it in the cabinet. Tried two more. Nothing. I think I have made every single mistake possible in this in spite of being very careful and studying this maddening activity in depth and in spite of all the great help from all of you. I still suck at this. Grrrr.
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