What finish do you apply to your CBGs?

Posted by Jim on October 27, 2015 at 2:40am

Hi all

I'm just about to start my first CBG build.

It will be a three string fretless, I've got a Macanudo cigar box and tuners off of ebay (it also comes with the sellers receipt from Shane Speal!) 

I would like to apply some sort of protective finish but dont have the space or confidence to use a spray on finish, I'd rather just brush it on.

So what do you all recommend? Varnish, lacquer, oil?

The main thing I would like is to not ruin the stickers on the box as I kind of like it :-) 

Thanks in advance

Jim

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Replies

  • Rooster November 3, 2015 at 9:09am

    Jim, a lot of us are using Tru-Oil gunstock finish to finish the necks. I have even covered several boxes with it with no problems at all. First I glue down any loose edges on the stickers with white glue, then give the box several thin coats of Tru-oil using a cotton gun cleaning patch. I have not used it on the fret board of any of my fretted builds (I use Danish oil on these)...........but a fretless build would be no problem. Tru-oil doesn't seem to effect the ink in the stickers and seems to make the colors really pop........I have even used it over sharpie ink with no problems ;-)

    Hope this helps :)

  • Jim October 28, 2015 at 5:36pm

    cheers for the advice peeps, much appreciated!

    I'm aware that its a stick in a box, but in this case (i think) its a nicely stickered and relatively pretty cigar box and was looking for a way to protect the stickers as much as anything else. I'm not looking for or expecting to achieve a deep glossy finish lol

    sounds like the minwax poly might be worth looking for, need to see if its available in the UK

    • QGolden > Jim October 28, 2015 at 5:45pm

      It may be a "stick in a box" but it's your stick in a box.  No reason why it cannot become an art form as well as functional.  Anyone can build a stick in a box, can you build something that will inspire others to build as well?  

  • Paul Craig October 27, 2015 at 6:26pm

    Paint and clear on top, Stain and Truoil or just Truoil for a natural finish.

  • John Sawyer October 27, 2015 at 11:47am
    I don't generally add a protective finish to a box. The weather from normal use adds character to the guitar...
    I do, however use either linseed oil or tru-oil on any raw wood. I have also used danish oil, and like it, too...

    Please read regular warnings about any oil finish, as rags can spontaneously combust... I have a metal paint can I use, and once the rags have sat for some days, they then go in the trash...
  • QGolden October 27, 2015 at 6:57am
    Hello, like Tom said, spray lacquer is the way to go. Practice on something else first though. Using a spray lacquer also allows you to spray a few "build up" coats, and sand down the finish with fine sandpaper or steel wool. This practice is referred to as a "hand rubbed lacquer finish" by the folks who build show cars. It gives a nice deep finish that is very durable. If you take the craft to other level by using air brushes, you can add hardeners to spray lacquer products, and that makes a more durable lacquer and significantly reduces the drying time between coats.
  • Robert Killen October 27, 2015 at 3:42am

    Hi Jim.

    I'm new as well, so I'm not recommending as much as sharing. For my second build I had a "stain plus poly" 2-in-1 product. I can't recommend it because the poly left a plastic feel (or maybe I messed up).

    After that I picked up a can of Deft Clear Wood Finish - Satin Brushing Lacquer. I love the result. It's just nice and hard.

    Don't know about the stickers. I've been taping mine off, and that's worked okay for me so far.

    I'm looking forward to others' suggestions. :-)

    Happy building!

  • Tom Drommond October 27, 2015 at 2:54am

    Brushing it on is even riskier than spraying it.  The varnish, will smear the printing on the box and look terrible. 

    Lowe's carries a Spray Lacquer from Valspar that is $4.00 a can and nearly fool proof.  It will lock down the edges of the paper covering. Light coats until you get a feel for it, then a couple more after it's dried for a couple days.  You'll know it's ready to recoat, when it doesn't smell like lacquer thinner.  I'm telling you, it's nearly fool proof.

    306493094?profile=original

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