One For The Woodworkers

Where I live in Illinois, the best hardwood I can find in 1x2 size is poplar.  I'd rather have oak because I want to mount telecaster pickups and I need the strength   I can buy a 6 foot section of oak that's 1 inch thick but 7 inches wide.

In a conversation with my Ace Hardware guy, I was told that ripping the wider board down to neck size would make it vulnerable to warping and/or twisting.  That scared me out of the idea.  What do you guys think about this?  Can I rip an oak board down to 1 1/2 wide and have it stay stable or not.

I don't know if the wood was air dried or kiln dried if that makes a difference.

Thanks for any help,

Fred

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Replies

  • I agree with Chris. A decent hand plane with a super sharp iron will leave a surface ready for finishing and trim edges true. An olderStanley/Bailey orRecordcan be found online and there are some newer planes that will do the job. If you have one already, sharpen it up and try it.
  • Me too mate, weather here has turned cold. Do you have an old hand plane of any kind, slow hard work but it's what the old masters used, I still use a cabinet scraper for detailed work, can't be beaten. Let me know how you get on mate. All the best, Chris. :)

  • Chris, I'm going to use Tims design on my next project which will be a resonator with a pretty big box.

    I don't have a planer (sp?) or a jointer, or a belt sander.  I do have an old Sears cast iron 10" table saw, a router and a dremel with some good cutters.  I made a router table out of a 2 ft. x 2 ft. piece of plywood and a garbage can. 

    My lumber problem was solved by two Menards stores and their good hardwood selections.  So right now I'm just waiting for the next warm front to move in so I can work in the garage.

  • Chris,

    The threaded rod in the mandolin is adjustable.  I countersunk the nut on the outside of the box so that it can't be seen.  Works very well.
     
    Chris Thomas said:

     Hi Tim and Fred, never made one before and I am new to CBG's too was thinking on the lines of a wooden truss but the tie rod is a far better idea, can the rod be adjusted, should be possible. Thank's to all at CBG's for your help, Tim let's do it mate were not on our own, not sure how it will turn out, he who dares mate, let me know how you progress. Chris. :)



    Tim Gale said:

    In the "free plans" section, there are some old plans from Popular Mechanics (I think) that describe how to make a violin, guitar and mandolin.  They all use bolt on necks.  I made a mandlin with a bolt on neck in the pics below.

    305761787?profile=original305761816?profile=original

    305761900?profile=originalThe bolt through the bottom allows me to counteract the tension the strings create while still allowing the box to be opened.  You could glue the box shut and it would probably do the same.  I am currently building a resonator cbg that I have a bolt on neck similar to this.  The box is glued shut, so I did not put the bolt in.  I do not have it strung up right now because I am working on the pickup setup.  When I did have it strung up, it held up to the tension very well.  If you don't use the tension bolt, I would dfinitely make sure all the joints on the box are glued very well.  Maybe even glue extra pieces of wood in the corners to add strength as well as cross braces in the top.  I have some pics on my page of a guitar I built where I put a square, steel tube inside the box then glued a threaded rod into the neck.  This threaded rod passed through the tube where I was able to put a nut on it and tighten it for tension.  Worked great, but I think I might just stick to the design above.  Hope this helps

    Tim

     

     


    Fred Railsback said:

    Tim,

    I am very new to CBG's.  The only construction design I know is through the body.  It's alot to ask, but do you have any pictures of the methods you are talking about?

     Hi Tim and Fred, never made one before and I am new to CBG's too was thinking on the lines of a wooden truss but the tie rod is a far better idea, can the rod be adjusted, should be possible. Thank's to all at CBG's for your help, Tim let's do it mate were not on our own, not sure how it will turn out, he who dares mate, let me know how you progress. Chris. :)

     



  • Tim Gale said:

    In the "free plans" section, there are some old plans from Popular Mechanics (I think) that describe how to make a violin, guitar and mandolin.  They all use bolt on necks.  I made a mandlin with a bolt on neck in the pics below.

    305761787?profile=original305761816?profile=original

    305761900?profile=originalThe bolt through the bottom allows me to counteract the tension the strings create while still allowing the box to be opened.  You could glue the box shut and it would probably do the same.  I am currently building a resonator cbg that I have a bolt on neck similar to this.  The box is glued shut, so I did not put the bolt in.  I do not have it strung up right now because I am working on the pickup setup.  When I did have it strung up, it held up to the tension very well.  If you don't use the tension bolt, I would dfinitely make sure all the joints on the box are glued very well.  Maybe even glue extra pieces of wood in the corners to add strength as well as cross braces in the top.  I have some pics on my page of a guitar I built where I put a square, steel tube inside the box then glued a threaded rod into the neck.  This threaded rod passed through the tube where I was able to put a nut on it and tighten it for tension.  Worked great, but I think I might just stick to the design above.  Hope this helps

    Tim

     

     


    Fred Railsback said:

    Tim,

    I am very new to CBG's.  The only construction design I know is through the body.  It's alot to ask, but do you have any pictures of the methods you are talking about?

     Hi Tim and Fred, never made one before and I am new to CBG's too was thinking on the lines of a wooden truss but the tie rod is a far better idea, can the rod be adjusted, should be possible. Thank's to all at CBG's for your help, Tim let's do it mate were not on our own, not sure how it will turn out, he who dares mate, let me know how you progress. Chris. :)

     

  • Sorry Fred, missed the bit about poplar, here it makes good packing crates and pallets, waste of time, stick with the hardwoods mate. Just ask around, someone somewhere always can or will know a man who can, some nice people in the world mate. Chris. :)

  • Hi Fred, I live in the good old UK and we have some real lousy weather and wood moves day to day depending on the conditions, winters wet and windy, summers hot wet and anything that the gods throw at us and a well seasoned oak should be six years air dried or terminal kiln dried to be fine. I don't have that problem as I have the cheek to go to joiners shops, furniture manufacturers, shop fitters etc cap in hand as we say and very politely ask to see the man in charge and ask if they can spare any off cuts. You might get a real bargain price, or sweep the floor as payment or as I have always done, come away with a wood yard of exotic wood in the back of the car and done the return visit to pick up the rest and on one occasion an invite to the office party! Talk to people, ask politely and once they get the swing of things you will start getting short of space to store the bloody stuff. Honest mate ask around and someone knows someone who has more than you can cope with then who gives a bugger if it warps or bends or does the twist. More wood than I can cope with, shame you don't live next door. Let me know when your cursing me and can't give it away, won't be long mate. Chris. :) Theirs nothing nicer than nice people, went down memory road and never came back. :)

  • Fred, if you have the milling capabilities, like a jointer and planer, you should try and find a source of un finished wood. You can get allot of yield out of a stick of 5/4.  Oak seems to warp, de-stress, more than other woods.  Whatever you buy it would be good to acclimate the wood to your environment before and after you rip it, slightly oversize, in case it de-stresses and you need to straighten it again.  Temperature effects raw wood allot. If your shop is un heated at night etc. you might want to paint the end grain of all your raw wood with paraffin the keep it from checking. Hope this sheds some light.

  • A poplar neck with walnut fretboard would probably be strong enough and look nice. You can order thin stuff from Woodcraft or several other online shopswith minimal shipping costs. Lowe's can special order oak without added shipping costss. HH probsbly can also and I know they carry maple too. You may be able to order online to be shipped to store with no upcharge.
  • http://www.rockler.com/c/lumber-sold-in-pre-cut-lengths.cfm      Rockler carries a fine assortment of pre- cut exotic`s and domestic woods. Their prices are resonable and they send it right to your door.  Alot of builders by their fretboard material from them. Their nice because they come in 1/8" and 1/4" and 1 1/2" wide, prefect for a 1x2 cgb neck. They also carry thicker stock for necks if you would want to get that pre-cut wood also. But i`ve learned over the years that if your using an oak neck without a truss rod or inner neck support to use an exotic wood for the fretboard. It helps in supporting the neck from bowing and looks killer !!

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