Posted by PhilUSAFRet on November 3, 2015 at 4:29pm
I need to modify this box. Top does not fit snugly. I can make it fit and use toolbox style latches to hold it on, or un-frame the top and use it like a cigar box top. Also needs to be cut down to reduce depth. Any tips or ideas
You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!
Add some thin edging inside the sides, flush with the top edge.
Design and install a neck, pickup, whatever variations the design calls for.
Glue the top panel on and flush trim it.
(Or some variation thereof.)
Which side to use as the "top" would depend on material, thickness, and what it sounds like when I tap on it. And my particular mood at the moment.
PhilUSAFRet > Mark BlissNovember 18, 2015 at 8:39am
The sides are 1/4", the top, which would become the bottom is only 1/16" and the bottom, which would become the top is 1/8" so I'd really have to brace that 1/16' bottom
Mark Bliss > PhilUSAFRetNovember 18, 2015 at 12:58pm
Well speaking of "brain farts"....
Somehow I overlooked your previous post before I commented.
I suppose you could flip the thing over and use the former top as a form of resonator. Its an interesting idea for an experiment. Perhaps spacing it off the back, and a cross brace on the back surface. Needs to be secure enough to not rattle or buzz obviously. And the neck construction/mounting would have to be considered as the box would not be structurally able to support much load.
Of course the argument could be made that you are modifying it so much you would have been better served to make a box from scratch. But wheres the fun in that? :-)
(I think your general idea would be interesting with a thick or reinforced top and a res cone. Just a thought.)
Have had a "brain fart", I'm now considering using the top as the bottom a' la' banjo resonator. Any downside to having space for the air vs a tight fit? Since the top is thinner than the bottom???? I'd have to reinforce it.
Cutting down would be easy on a table saw if it is just glued (no brads or staples?). Lay the bottom against the rip fence at desired depth and do all four edges. Top would be easy to firm up with screws so things are accessible, or you could glue it of course if no need to get into it later.
Replies
What is the thickness of the top, back and sides?
Generally, my first thought would be to:
Remove the top from the top frame.
Add some thin edging inside the sides, flush with the top edge.
Design and install a neck, pickup, whatever variations the design calls for.
Glue the top panel on and flush trim it.
(Or some variation thereof.)
Which side to use as the "top" would depend on material, thickness, and what it sounds like when I tap on it. And my particular mood at the moment.
The sides are 1/4", the top, which would become the bottom is only 1/16" and the bottom, which would become the top is 1/8" so I'd really have to brace that 1/16' bottom
Well speaking of "brain farts"....
Somehow I overlooked your previous post before I commented.
I suppose you could flip the thing over and use the former top as a form of resonator. Its an interesting idea for an experiment. Perhaps spacing it off the back, and a cross brace on the back surface. Needs to be secure enough to not rattle or buzz obviously. And the neck construction/mounting would have to be considered as the box would not be structurally able to support much load.
Of course the argument could be made that you are modifying it so much you would have been better served to make a box from scratch. But wheres the fun in that? :-)
(I think your general idea would be interesting with a thick or reinforced top and a res cone. Just a thought.)
Have had a "brain fart", I'm now considering using the top as the bottom a' la' banjo resonator. Any downside to having space for the air vs a tight fit? Since the top is thinner than the bottom???? I'd have to reinforce it.