Thanks All for your comments and support - I'm having a great time and learning as I go - not in any rush. Is there any preference between gloss or satin for the cigar box ?
I've already got one or two more CBGs in mind - one of those being an electric and may do a license plate based one as well. With that knowledge I then want to build a 4 string solid body based on a Tele .........
Let the box tell you what kind of finish it wants. If you have a slick black box with silver letters put gloss top coat with nickel, pewter and chrome amendments. If you have a worn box you would want to protect the box with a flat finish.I have seen boxes that are really rough (I mean like splinters on it) That needs ultra flat. All this opinion, but you get the idea of what I am saying. The rest isn't opinion. Rattle cans will give you a smoother finish than brushing. The glossier something is the more it will show any defect. Like looking at a pond on a still day. You can spot a leaf floating 50 yards away. Wind starts to blow and pond gets waves and the same leaf is invisible at a closer distance. Main problems with spray in the summer where I live is humidity. Spray will pick up water out of the air between the the can and the workpiece.That is called blush. Semi gloss has a tendency to blush worse than gloss, but gloss will show any blush. You can get by by spraying outside and getting it inside in a hurry. It will be cloudy. I heat the basement with a kerosene heater to dry air out.After finish flashes off, I hit it with several more coats. I usually keep doing that until there is enough build on it to soft sand 24 hours later. After soft sand I wipe down and do it again.This is rambling bad but you asked. For what it is worth (;-D)
I think it's probably whatever you prefer!
I'm working on my first guitar right now, an electric License Plate Guitar. I made an Appalachian Mountain Dulcimer last year.
Monteray is right. I polish metal and clean with lacquer thinner, to remove polishing material and clear coat on a regular basis. You can clear coat with no problem. Just apply light coats and change spray angles.There will be a little area around the base of the sound holes that will be hard to cover. The spray does wh9at is called cavitation,that causes this. Multiple light coats will get you by. I reread your OP and you said oil finish on the neck, if that is the case you would mask the neck to protect from overspray. The hard part is the fact this is your first and you want to string that baby up to see what it sounds like. This is a good looking build Henry and there should be more of them in you. (:-D)
I was wondering about that ..... should have asked about it earlier - is it too late to spray on if the sound hole pieces are already glued in ??? Thanks !!
I wouldn't think so- I used to work for some people who had a couple of antique brass chandeliers from a train station, and they polished them up real nice and then spray varathaned them so they wouldn't tarnish
Replies
Thanks All for your comments and support - I'm having a great time and learning as I go - not in any rush. Is there any preference between gloss or satin for the cigar box ?
I've already got one or two more CBGs in mind - one of those being an electric and may do a license plate based one as well. With that knowledge I then want to build a 4 string solid body based on a Tele .........
Let the box tell you what kind of finish it wants. If you have a slick black box with silver letters put gloss top coat with nickel, pewter and chrome amendments. If you have a worn box you would want to protect the box with a flat finish.I have seen boxes that are really rough (I mean like splinters on it) That needs ultra flat. All this opinion, but you get the idea of what I am saying. The rest isn't opinion. Rattle cans will give you a smoother finish than brushing. The glossier something is the more it will show any defect. Like looking at a pond on a still day. You can spot a leaf floating 50 yards away. Wind starts to blow and pond gets waves and the same leaf is invisible at a closer distance. Main problems with spray in the summer where I live is humidity. Spray will pick up water out of the air between the the can and the workpiece.That is called blush. Semi gloss has a tendency to blush worse than gloss, but gloss will show any blush. You can get by by spraying outside and getting it inside in a hurry. It will be cloudy. I heat the basement with a kerosene heater to dry air out.After finish flashes off, I hit it with several more coats. I usually keep doing that until there is enough build on it to soft sand 24 hours later. After soft sand I wipe down and do it again.This is rambling bad but you asked. For what it is worth (;-D)
I'm working on my first guitar right now, an electric License Plate Guitar. I made an Appalachian Mountain Dulcimer last year.
Monteray is right. I polish metal and clean with lacquer thinner, to remove polishing material and clear coat on a regular basis. You can clear coat with no problem. Just apply light coats and change spray angles.There will be a little area around the base of the sound holes that will be hard to cover. The spray does wh9at is called cavitation,that causes this. Multiple light coats will get you by. I reread your OP and you said oil finish on the neck, if that is the case you would mask the neck to protect from overspray. The hard part is the fact this is your first and you want to string that baby up to see what it sounds like. This is a good looking build Henry and there should be more of them in you. (:-D)
lookin good man ;-)
I was wondering about that ..... should have asked about it earlier - is it too late to spray on if the sound hole pieces are already glued in ??? Thanks !!