drill bits

I have been having an awful time drilling holes for tuners.  (Cordless hand drill).  I mark them and use an awl to get the drill a place to start.  By the time I have drilled the hole, it is not exactly where I wanted it to be.  I bought a couple of Bradpoint bits recently and drilled tuner holes this morning.  That is a great improvement.  Perfectly located holes and no tear out.  I think I first heard of brad point bits somewhere on this site.  

Just passing it on, guys.

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  • Brad points, flat/speed/spade end which ever name you prefer and auger bits are all good for the job providing you use a sacrifice piece of timber clamped too the underside, auger can be a little aggressive for some as they tend to drag you in, (iv`e started this hole and nothings going to stop me coming through) attitude, but when sharp i feel give the cleanest hole, also Brad and flat bits now come with `spur` sides which scribe the hole before the mane part of the `corkscrew` bit moves in to remove the waste alleviating spelch out and these are usually a little bit dearer but still inexpensive. This is just my opinion and although I am relatively new to CBG building, I have 33 years exp as a carpenter/teacher and these are my preferences, every body finds tools and methods that work for them and as long as the required outcome is there then go with what works for you, but if you can, buy a drill press ;) Alternatively use a small pilot drill bit then drill halfway with the required size bit from either side to avoid breakout. 

  • I LOVE brad-point bits for drilling exactly where you want -- I also use a center punch to get the pilot spur exact.
  •  I honestly got tired of sloppy holes in my headstock-roughly the same time I got tired of a particular Phillips screwdriver  gouging into things every time it slipped the screw head (the wood, my hand etc). That's when I noticed this particular Phillips was the exact same size as my tuner shaft...

     So now I drill my holes with a smaller bit, and 'finish' the tuner holes with my brand new 'circular wood planer' aka my evil blood-thirsty screwdriver-just insert and twist like a hand drill! It's weird I know but it works for me...

  • I found this to help a lot with keeping bits straight and where I want it. I mark where I want the holes and use an awl to mark the spot. I use a hand drill and just hold this tool with the other. So far works ok.


    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0061FY004/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o...
    • Cool, that is a nice tool. I have made wood drill bit guides before, I like the way that one will sit on a round bar or pipe.  Thx  for sharing.

    • NP. It is also supposed to work on angles but I have not tried.
  • Wayfinder,

      no room on the sailboat for a drill press.......nor table saw....: (

  • Brad point bits and backing your work with scrap are both good ideas. It's also good to use a center punch to mark your holes before drilling...

  • I used them as well doing my fret dots- best holes I've drilled in wood! I don't have a drill press either, just the hand drill- guess I always put a piece of wood behind to drill into too
  • Glad they worked out for you, I think the thread you reference is here:

    http://www.cigarboxnation.com/group/class101/forum/topics/drill-bit...

    Good drilling practice includes a piece of wood as a backer.  It will eliminate tear out.  Use that same idea on your table saw or bandsaw as well,  fit a piece of hardwood to the back side and when the blade exits there will be no tearout.   And as Duck says, let the drill bit do the work, just use a new sharp bit.  

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