This should hopefully be a quick and easy one to answer. I've been using Tung oil finish on the wooden parts of the CBG. But, it seems to me like that would be the wrong thing to use to add a protective coat to a paper covered box. What's the best finish for preserving and/or enhancing the appearance of paper covered boxes? Polyurethane, or some other type of clear coat?
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Wear.
Wear is the best finish.
More wear is good. Severe wear is awesome.
Natural wear through extended use is best!
It's knowing the wear from pristine to decadence that tells the story of the instrument. This is why they should be made to the best and enjoyed to the worst.
I try and let the box tell me what it wants. If it's a beautiful flawless box, keep it that way when possible, but if it's a bit of a relic it needs to be left in it's natural state and let it show it's age. Preservation is great if it's going to be sitting on display in a museum, but if it's going to be used (and that is what we build these things for) let it show it's scars proudly.
I see no need to add "fake patina" like the rat rodders do with their cars and some folks like to do to a new strat to make it look "cool", but if it's got history enjoy it and don't try and hide it. At the same time, if you are building an old ratty box, don't put a shiny, new looking neck on the box because it will look out of place.
Ratocaster
I've had good luck with clear spray lacquer. It will penetrate well and dries fast, but generally I leave paper covered boxes alone and let them age. It adds character.
Cool, thanks. Good reminder that sometimes less is more. I'll try to remember that and factor that into whether I end up "preserving the box" with finish or "letting it ride" without any finish depending on the specific build.
Well, i've used multiple light coats of polyurethane (both water and oil-based, both spray-on and brushed) with no issues). I've used a shellac likewise without problem. The secret is multiple light coats with dry time between layers.
Now I have had some soak-through with varnish on some(not all) paper boxes-but sometimes I want the soak-through because it will literally bond the paper into the wood or masonite...in fact I have used light coats of varnish inside my builds in order to make them more resistant to changes in moisture and temperature. For the 'soak-through and bond' effect I use light coats but re-apply while the surface is lightly tacky.
I know several members here have reported success with various Sanding Sealers but I have no actual experience with them...
Thanks