So I've built a cbg before but it was an electric 3 string guitar with a through neck. Thing is my friend asked me to build him a Cigar box uke, a tenor, and I think it would be better if it wasn't a through neck since its gonna be acoustic so how do I attach it?, I have an idea on how to make the neck but will some glue be enough to stick it on?
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Here's my ascii version of what I did. I tried bolting onto the front of the box, with a very solid support block inside, and the neck moved over a few days. So I did it a different way and it has been solid and dandy. You glue a support block inside the box, snug to the sides front and bottom for max stick. Mine was 40mm wide. The height is whatever you need to be the same the height as the bottom of your heel extension. You make the heel part of the neck extended so it goes into the box 40mm. (You probably should add a screw to the underside of the heel up into the neck too. They tend to pull off.) Now you can run a bolt through the heel extension and the support block vertically. Do this as close as you can to the front edge of the box. If you need neck relief, shim the back of the block. Easy! Once you're happy with it and have the neck lined up right, add a screw or two so the neck can't move at all.
bottom of neck heel box edge
_______________ : support
|__*____:__*_____|_____bottom of box____
heel screw bolt
That should make sense. Good luck!
I glue a doubler block to the inside of the box, put in a 1/4-20 threaded insert in the neck, then glue the joint and bolt the neck on thru the doubler and box. It may be overkill, but the join is rock solid.
Looks really good. I am currently building my first CBUke without throughneck design. I wasn't sure how much extra support it would need and I probably overdid it. I was worried as ths is my first 6 string Uke build and wanted to be sure i didn't distort the neck/box with the added tension.
I am currently on the road for work and don't have access to my photos but I will send some pics of my added support when am back home this weekend.
Best regards,
Chuck
Nice pics, neat job.....thanks for sharing
This is the bolt in attachment. Added wood to support bending...
a shot showing taper of the neck...about 1 and 7/16 inches to just over 2 inches at the bridge...
What about a neck taper?
I use 1 and 1/2 as well for my clumsy, fat fingers-sadly, doesn't help my hideous lack of technique one bit.. :)
I agree that most ukuleles don't need much reinforcement, but I tried something different on a recent Uke I gave to friend for his birthday. He wanted the option to use banjo and guitar strings (he experiments) so I-
1) cut a square hole for a neck-thru, but slotted the neck in only 1/4 inch
2) Glued a thick heel block beneath the neck inside the box and attatched neck to heel with two brass screws, shimming the angle with brass washers 3) glue additional heel block to the inner bottom, and 4) screw and glue two 1/4 by 1 1/2 oak slats to join both blocks, making two thin but strong vertical 'neck-thrus'. This arrangement allowed me to still center the soundhole in the traditional fashion my friend wanted.
For purists who don't want metal construction, this design would also work with furniture pegs and glue.
Hey guys,another question for you, For a tenor ukulele what should the width of the fingerboard be??
I like 1.25" at the nut and 1.5" at the 12th (ish) fret.
I bought some pre-made bone nuts and they are 1 3/8 inches.
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