IF, the neck has an angle, in relation to the soundbox, a taller bridge could be used... and the strings could then be angled downwards in the afterlength, to a tailpiece.
The angled neck, and tall bridge, would put more string pressure on the soundbox, helping out the volume a lot!
Otherwise, a piezo and a 9v battery powered amp would not be really expensive... a bass is plenty large enough to put all them inside the box, with a speaker!
Not too difficult to plane a fingerboard with a curved radius that would be effective for a crude bass...
It will need a degree of 'scoop' in it, if the fingerboard is long, for where the string vibrates... or just keep the action on the high side...
Wheels a good idea if you will be roller skating while playing. If just strolling, a strap should be fine. It should not weigh much if it to be resonant.
Traditionally the fingerboard does end far from the bridge. No reason you couldn't go further, but it'd be kind of hard to get to any positions far onto the body unless you have a tremendous reach, especially because the neck is set at an angle.
Thanks for the info. Here is a picture of my plan, not finished yet.
there will be wheels because we will play in the streets. I still don't know what will be the tail. The resonante boxes are two plastic tins stuck together, there used to be truck oil in them.
I'm not going to use a bow as I have never, yet, made a radius on guitars, so I don't want to do that yet.
Soo, I'm going to make a violin, then, I will learn how to make a radius.
'Sorry if my english is not perfect.)
There will be an acoustic guitar made of a metal box, a banjo made of a tom and a harmonica. I hope we will hear the double bass.
I'd move the bridge further down, try for around a 40" (101.6cm) scale length, that'll make it easiest to have the strings feel tight and not floppy. Looks a little short in the picture.
I agree with making a flat fingerboard, if you're just using your fingers there's not much reason to make a radius.
Also the body is going to have to be very big and resonant if you want to be heard, especially if you're playing outdoors. Don't be surprised if you get drowned out. How many other people will you play with and what do they play?
hmm...I forgot to say that the scale is short because I will use acoustic bass strings, the playable string is around 94 cm, 37". Double bass string are to expensive.
So... I can lower down the bridge and the neck.
We are going to play kind of bluegrass and old time but tunes without copyrights. I leave in a touristic place where the "music police" walks in the streets and in bars to check if we are naughty. If we are, we have to pay a fine. Other here, we have to wait 70 years after the deaf composer.
I am the banjo player, my sister sings and plays harmonica, my brother in law : mandolin or acoustic guitar and my friend : bass
Depends on the player's style. If he's used to a regular double bass the angle might be necessary, and definitely is if he wants to play up high. Looking at your drawing, the bassist would be limited by the neck join to the lower positions.
As for nut height, you'll have to play with it. Since it's fretless you can go very very low. I'd say start somewhere and start lowering until it's good
Replies
IF, the neck has an angle, in relation to the soundbox, a taller bridge could be used... and the strings could then be angled downwards in the afterlength, to a tailpiece.
The angled neck, and tall bridge, would put more string pressure on the soundbox, helping out the volume a lot!
Otherwise, a piezo and a 9v battery powered amp would not be really expensive... a bass is plenty large enough to put all them inside the box, with a speaker!
Not too difficult to plane a fingerboard with a curved radius that would be effective for a crude bass...
It will need a degree of 'scoop' in it, if the fingerboard is long, for where the string vibrates... or just keep the action on the high side...
Wheels a good idea if you will be roller skating while playing. If just strolling, a strap should be fine. It should not weigh much if it to be resonant.
Fun stuff!
I built a very basic electric stand up bass and regularly play a
factory made 3/4 size electric stand up bass so I will be
delighted to follow this discussion. The violin,
viola. cello and bass are very old instruments
and they were originally built to be used with a bow.
This is reflected in the curved fingerboard and bridge.
There is no real reason why a 'giant' bass guitar design
could not be used.
If you are planning to use a bow - the neck will end a long
way from the body of the instrument. If you plan to use
a bow, you will need to use bass strings (or weed whackers),
get a bow (some rosin) and learn to use the bow.
For 'modern' music the bow is rarely used so the big bass
guitar could be used.
Traditionally the fingerboard does end far from the bridge. No reason you couldn't go further, but it'd be kind of hard to get to any positions far onto the body unless you have a tremendous reach, especially because the neck is set at an angle.
Are you planning on making it standard (3/4) size? Here are some dimsensions that will help http://www.gollihurmusic.com/faq/2-SIZES_DOUBLE_BASS_SIZING_FAQ.html
You might look into how Yamaha did the Silent Cello body if you want to use a cigar box but play it kind of like a double bass
Thanks for the info. Here is a picture of my plan, not finished yet.
I'm not going to use a bow as I have never, yet, made a radius on guitars, so I don't want to do that yet.
Soo, I'm going to make a violin, then, I will learn how to make a radius.
'Sorry if my english is not perfect.)
There will be an acoustic guitar made of a metal box, a banjo made of a tom and a harmonica. I hope we will hear the double bass.
I'd move the bridge further down, try for around a 40" (101.6cm) scale length, that'll make it easiest to have the strings feel tight and not floppy. Looks a little short in the picture.
I agree with making a flat fingerboard, if you're just using your fingers there's not much reason to make a radius.
Also the body is going to have to be very big and resonant if you want to be heard, especially if you're playing outdoors. Don't be surprised if you get drowned out. How many other people will you play with and what do they play?
hmm...I forgot to say that the scale is short because I will use acoustic bass strings, the playable string is around 94 cm, 37". Double bass string are to expensive.
So... I can lower down the bridge and the neck.
We are going to play kind of bluegrass and old time but tunes without copyrights. I leave in a touristic place where the "music police" walks in the streets and in bars to check if we are naughty. If we are, we have to pay a fine. Other here, we have to wait 70 years after the deaf composer.
I am the banjo player, my sister sings and plays harmonica, my brother in law : mandolin or acoustic guitar and my friend : bass
37" isn't bad at all, that should be fine. You could go longer with weed wacker cord but whatever works for you.
Give it a try and see how it sounds!
Do you think the neck shoud'nt be parallel to the box ? I did put a angle but I don't know if it's really necessary.
And how high should be the nut ? Meaning how high should be the strings from the neck ?
Depends on the player's style. If he's used to a regular double bass the angle might be necessary, and definitely is if he wants to play up high. Looking at your drawing, the bassist would be limited by the neck join to the lower positions.
As for nut height, you'll have to play with it. Since it's fretless you can go very very low. I'd say start somewhere and start lowering until it's good
So, I plan to build one and would be gratefull for any information. First, I wonder where to end the neck, must it be far from the bridge ?