1st CB bass questions

Folks, I am attempting to build a 4-string acoustic/electric bass out of a big George Dickel Whiskey box with a 31.5" scale length. The neck will be a laminated quarter sawn 1" thick pine with an inch of hard mahogony running the full length to truss it up. I have built two CBG, so I know a bit about the key processes in CBG crafting, but have a few specific questions regarding the bass. I don't own a store bought bass, so I have no references.

1.) String spacing. I like a good 3/8 between my CBG strings for ease of play (for me), but what might be a good spacing for a 4-string bass? I know the neck shouldn't be too wide, but at the same time the thicker bass strings might demand a wide spacing.

2.) Strings. Should I plan on using standard electric bass strings, or, in your experience with CBBs is it best to just use the thicker (.056, etc.) acoustic or electric guitar strings?

3.) Will a 31.5" scale length with a 5" deep by 12" box give me a pretty good low end sound?

4.) Does the standard piezo hookup work pretty well with a CBB?

5.) Is there anything else unique to electric CBB crafting that I should know about?

Thanks a LOT for any help you can offer!

- Rick

Richard,
Thanks a lot for the thoughtful info! Building a bass is so different than a standard acoustic that I had no place to start. Now maybe I can begin this thing.

Richard Sanabia said:

Hi Rick. I love making CB basses. I would encourage to use standard bass spacing, and use three strings. I use .085 (A), .075 (D), .045 (G), flatwounds, tuning ADG. Using a big E string, like a .105, would not have a low with that size box, unless you use a pickup. I made a similar sized bass as an acoustic, but the lows weren't deep enough, but okay with a piezo. Piezos with roundwounds are pretty noisy. Keep the action high if you play with fingers for that deep mellow sound. Suggest you route a 1/4 inch groove for a non adjustable truss rod, seal it in the neck, then place your finger board on top, light pine neck, and dark fingerboard would look great. I bought a square 1/4 inch rod at Home Depot. I believe it will add a bit of sustain to the neck. The rod will help a LOT with strength. That way you could keep the neck width reasonable. The soft pine would benefit from the stiffening...Peace, rich

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Fitzhugh June 5, 2010 at 11:30pm

How did it turn out? I'm going to build one soon, once I figure out what not to do first...
I'd appreciate hearing anything you learned along the way.
Rick Martin May 8, 2010 at 7:24pm

Richard,
Thanks a lot for the thoughtful info! Building a bass is so different than a standard acoustic that I had no place to start. Now maybe I can begin this thing.

Richard Sanabia said:
Hi Rick. I love making CB basses. I would encourage to use standard bass spacing, and use three strings. I use .085 (A), .075 (D), .045 (G), flatwounds, tuning ADG. Using a big E string, like a .105, would not have a low with that size box, unless you use a pickup. I made a similar sized bass as an acoustic, but the lows weren't deep enough, but okay with a piezo. Piezos with roundwounds are pretty noisy. Keep the action high if you play with fingers for that deep mellow sound. Suggest you route a 1/4 inch groove for a non adjustable truss rod, seal it in the neck, then place your finger board on top, light pine neck, and dark fingerboard would look great. I bought a square 1/4 inch rod at Home Depot. I believe it will add a bit of sustain to the neck. The rod will help a LOT with strength. That way you could keep the neck width reasonable. The soft pine would benefit from the stiffening...Peace, rich
Richard Sanabia May 8, 2010 at 1:16pm

Hi Rick. I love making CB basses. I would encourage to use standard bass spacing, and use three strings. I use .085 (A), .075 (D), .045 (G), flatwounds, tuning ADG. Using a big E string, like a .105, would not have a low with that size box, unless you use a pickup. I made a similar sized bass as an acoustic, but the lows weren't deep enough, but okay with a piezo. Piezos with roundwounds are pretty noisy. Keep the action high if you play with fingers for that deep mellow sound. Suggest you route a 1/4 inch groove for a non adjustable truss rod, seal it in the neck, then place your finger board on top, light pine neck, and dark fingerboard would look great. I bought a square 1/4 inch rod at Home Depot. I believe it will add a bit of sustain to the neck. The rod will help a LOT with strength. That way you could keep the neck width reasonable. The soft pine would benefit from the stiffening...Peace, rich
Wade April 12, 2010 at 8:34pm

HOw did you make out on your build? Ebay has some inexpensive weed wacker type strings you could also try for your build.
Rick Martin March 17, 2010 at 8:31am

Thanks for the tips, Matt. Your info will give me a good starting point. I think I will go with the lighter gauge bass strings, as suggested; when I look at those big .105s it scares me, even with my reinforced neck.
Outhouse Instruments March 15, 2010 at 8:11pm

1- Whatever spacing works for you. My Hamer p-bass copy is about 5/16ths.
2-I would use regular bass strings. IF you are concerned about tension ... use a lighter gauge set.
3-About as good as you can get. With acoustic, basses bigger is better. Ever see an upright? Big for a reason.
IMHO - depth seems to be most important on CBG's .. the 5" is good. Scale length has little to do with low end.
Size really does matter.
4-Yep. Sounds like an upright.
5- Might wanna consider an wider than normal CBG neck to help with the stress. I would also just try the piezo 1st.
Maybe even try using weed wacker line.

Matt

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