Seems to me that for the purpose of fret location calculation, a zero fret and nut are identical, right?
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Seems to me that for the purpose of fret location calculation, a zero fret and nut are identical, right?
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Hi, I suppose there is benefit in using a premade nut, but without the maker of the nut knowing what certain spec's of the neck it's going on are, I'd imagine there would still be work to be done by the purchaser.
Questions that arise are- does it sit on a flat or sloping surface, is it high enough to clear fingerboard (or too high), do the strings sit at the preferred height above the frets. And, do the fret slots suit the strings.
If the nut does not fit perfectly then I invisage the beginner builder, either having to modify what they have (if you have the tools to do that, you could make your own) or using it as is, and be unhappy with the playability of their build.
Taff
Every type of nut or zero fret is going to take some ingenuity to set up correctly. Each way has to take into consideration correct intonation, string spacing, string height, string break angle over the nut/zero fret, use of string guides or retainers.
My thoughts on the zero fret is that it's marketed to seem easier than a nut, but in reality it's not much different and requires string guides to keep the strings spaced correctly like a nut does.
I personally don't see an advantage to having a zero fret. Most say it's easier to install, but I don't see why a fret is easier than a nut. You may not have to cut string slots at the right depth with a zero fret, but you still have to install string guides and retainers.
So You only get out of cutting string slots unless you get a pre-slotted nut. That's what I use on my 6 string guitars so all I have to deal with is getting the nut height right. Works great and you can use a Uke pre-slotted nut for 4 string CBG's if that's what you want.
On CBG's I use a brass bolt for the nut. It's got multiple slots in it to get the right string spacing, I just have to cut the channel for it at the right depth. Something you have to do with a zero fret only bigger, has built in guides and if your headstock is angled you don't have to worry about string retainers.
I just built a cbg kit,and really liked the neck design, nice and easy. I'm trying to copy the cb gitty design. Making nuts drives me nuts, and it's not a long trip.
LOL.
When using a nut, I would cut the fretboard off at the right length and get the pre-slotted nut(for Uke if a 4string) and put it up against the fretboard. Then measure the preferred string height for each string and draw a straight line from one side to the other. glue the nut to the end of the fretboard with the drawn line even with the top of the fretboard. The excess nut material will protrude under the fretboard. sand that excess off and glue the fretboard and nut to the top of the neck and your done.
If the fret board is already attached to the neck, then you just need to draw a 2nd line under the first one that is the thickness of the fretboard and sand from the bottom of the nut up to that lowest line and glue into place with a dab of superglue.
It looks harder than it really is.
3 string Cbg would require you to cut your own slots because nobody makes a preslotted nut for 3 strings or a 4string/6string that could be cut down for use.
Which is why I use a brass bolt for CBG's.
Do you use different size bolts to set the string height? I've done a bit of that.
Sorry for the long wait on response, in the middle of moving. I use the 3/8" bolt because my fretboards are 1/4" thick which leaves 1/8" bolt thickness left to rise above the fretboard. But, that doesn't include the threads. So you'll need to use a half round file to cut a slight channel at the end of the fretboard to seat the bolt in place.
You also have to measure from center of bolt to the first fret for intonation purposes.
Hi James, So long as the front of the nut corresponds to the centre of the zero fret, which should be the zero nuts fret slot position.
Where one would normally end the fingerboard at the nut, with a zero fret you will need a bit longer fingerboard so as to seat the fret.
Taff
Thx that's what I thought.
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