Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Douglas Eric Marsalis on August 18, 2010 at 3:15am

Thanks Naz. I should have looked around more. Sorry to repeat a post.

D

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Permalink Reply by Dave Onastik on August 18, 2010 at 3:43am

I'm currently working on my first 6-string. I typically laminate my necks, and the one I am working on now is two pieces of cherry with a 1/4" strip of oak sandwiched in between. The overall width shouldn't have to be more than 2-1/4", but mine is 2-1/2". With my available power tools (table saw & band saw), I found it a lot more challenging to make straight cuts to the wood. 1/4" less thickness would have made a difference, but I am used to working with a starting width of 1-3/4" for 3 or 4 stringers.

I plan on inserting a 1/8" x 1/2" steel bar for a truss rod, non-adjustible. I am still setting up to cut with my dremel tool and will post pics of the process, assuming I don't screw it up.

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Permalink Reply by ken farmer on August 18, 2010 at 10:41am

just a thought - pics of screw-ups can be more informative...

Dave Onastik said:

I'm currently working on my first 6-string. I typically laminate my necks, and the one I am working on now is two pieces of cherry with a 1/4" strip of oak sandwiched in between. The overall width shouldn't have to be more than 2-1/4", but mine is 2-1/2". With my available power tools (table saw & band saw), I found it a lot more challenging to make straight cuts to the wood. 1/4" less thickness would have made a difference, but I am used to working with a starting width of 1-3/4" for 3 or 4 stringers. I plan on inserting a 1/8" x 1/2" steel bar for a truss rod, non-adjustible. I am still setting up to cut with my dremel tool and will post pics of the process, assuming I don't screw it up.

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Permalink Reply by Don Thompson on August 18, 2010 at 11:12am

http://europa.spaceports.com/~fishbake/strat/truss.htm
I have built similar. Quite simple.The tricky part making is the plate holding the upper all thread tightly and the lower rod that adjusts. I didn't have a correct tap then so I just swedged the upper rod by filing three flats at the end of the rod and used a hammer and punch to swedge the rod end so it wouldn't turn. I have since then bought a tap and I still tap around the rod to seat it. I prefer to be able to adjust my necks rather than be flat.
Don

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Permalink Reply by HENRY LOWMAN on August 18, 2010 at 2:26pm

I have used a 1x2 for an 8 string (4 double courses), as well as a 6 string. The string spacing might be a little tight for some, but it works for me...LOL! I glue 3 on top of each other and...voila! The idea is as a removable neck. So far I haven't used a truss rod (though one might help some of my builds).

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Permalink Reply by Bear on August 19, 2010 at 5:34am

I've made a number of 6-stringers. Mine are solid-body electrics, so are made pretty much like a standard electric guitar (bolt-on neck, body routed for controls, pickup, and neck pocket). With a 23" scale length, .009 strings, and using quartersawn cherry, I have discovered that a truss rod isn't necessary. Necks are shaped like a standard electric guitar, so they're tapered, with a 1 5/8" nut width, cut out on the bandsaw. Profile is shaped with a big, hairy farrier's rasp, a half-round file, and sandpaper. It's not as difficult as you think it is!

http://www.cigarboxnation.com/photo/padron-1?context=user

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Permalink Reply by Mister Scott on August 19, 2010 at 4:34pm

ken farmer said:

just a thought - pics of screw-ups can be more informative...

Careful what you wish for...

I just finished inserting a non-adjustable truss rod in my current 6-string project. The groove was cut, based on a recommendation here at this forum, with the Dremel straight line cutter that comes with the circle cutter add-on. The "truss" is from a 3-foot metal rod I bought at Menards, set in the groove with quick-dry epoxy.

As you can see, the line-cutter is unwieldy, and jumps around all over the place. Here's a close-up:

I know this is going to be covered up by a fingerboard, but I'm not very proud of this work. It might be back to the drawing board to find a method with a little more control, or finesse.

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Permalink Reply by Dave Onastik on August 19, 2010 at 5:19pm

Here are a few photos of my attempt at a truss rod today.

Basically, I clamped my neck into a small workstand, then clamped a taller board next to it to serve as a straight edge. I ran my dremel tool along the edge. It was almost centered, but not completely perfect.

Attachments:

• photo.JPG, 1.1 MB
• photo2.JPG, 1 MB
• photo3.JPG, 1.1 MB

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Permalink Reply by Dave Onastik on August 19, 2010 at 5:27pm

I had to do multiple runs, making the cutter a tad deeper each time. The first few passes, I used the multi-purpose cutting tool, which didn't do that great of a job. Didn't cut easy, and my dremel was cutting off due to the high temp. Later I went to Lowes and picked up a dremel high speed cutting bit for a little over $5. It did a much better job.

For the truss rod, I'm using a piece of 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick steel bar stock. The neck itself is a piece of 1/4" oak laminated between two pieces of cherry. Most of the cutting for the rod is thru the oak.

Attachments:

• photo4.JPG, 1.1 MB
• photo5.JPG, 1.1 MB
• photo6.JPG, 1 MB

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Permalink Reply by Dave Onastik on August 19, 2010 at 5:32pm

The bar fits perfect in the slot. Even with the straght edge, the tool got away from me near the nut, but nothing to cry about. As Scotty said above, the fingerboard will hide it.

Not sure what to do about affixing the rod. I've read where other people use epoxy. I figured when I glue the fingerboard, I will also fill the slot with glue over the top of the bar.

Attachments:

• photo7.JPG, 1.1 MB
• photo8.JPG, 1 MB

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