Hey Good People,
the question is fairly simple: does a lap steel need a truss rod or can it be worked out by using sufficiently rigid materials for the body?
My logic says a rigid body will work just fine but my logic has gotten me in severe troubles before so...
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You can also use 2 square non adjusting rods like danelctro does?
Will 3/16"x 3/4" aluminum flat stock work as a reinforcement work?
Hi Will, if it's put in a channel that size and a tight fit. You will possible find that it may bend slightly between your thumbs if bent on its flat side but not when pressure applied to the edges. Best way is to test its bending resistance.
On a six string acoustic at concert tuning there's about 150lbs pull from the strings, give or take.
Taff
I just saw a question hear but it disappeared quickly, but it was a good question.
it was along the lines of.......can one just use a length of threaded steel rod. Well yes you can, that's what the original truss rod were, and still are. But if you decide to use just a length of rod with an adjusting nut on one end you be best to understand how a rod works and it's main function.
I assume what was meant was a length of steel rod threaded at one end with a nut.
Function- is to tension the neck against the upward pull of the strings.
How- the rod is low in its channel and not straight, it has to have an appropriate bend in it, so that when placed under tension from tightening the nut it trys to straighten out pulling the neck with it.
Hope that makes sense Taff
Hi Taffy.
If a simple rod were to be used, I would lean toward your carbon fiber rod for stiffness. LIght, but very strong. In the end however, If you have to carve a channel for a threaded rod or a carbon fiber rod, my thinking is that you might as well install an adjustable truss rod. Not really any more work and they are cheap. It gives you a bit of adjustment options if you need it.
Just my thoughts,
yes Tom I agree, if adjustment is needed its nearly the same amount work for a reinforcing bar as for and adjustable truss rod.
Taff
Hi again Tom, I just read your post again. If a carbon fibre rod or tube was used it would need to be of a size that would resist bending. I always use flat bar that is higher than it is wide, if it is carbon fibre or steel.
If I can bend whatever reinforcing material between my thumbs, I figure it will bend with the neck also.
In the photo are two lengths of carbon fibre, they are of course different dimensions but close to the same mass, going by weight. The rod I can bend between my thumbs, the thin bar, I can't bend at all. This why I recommend flat bar to round rod.
Taff
This is a little off subject, but I must say I'm beginning to appreciate handmade guitar builders(not the mass production type) or should I say custom builders! I never understood until now. "Don't touch my Fredrico what's his name guitar! I'll break your fingers!" Wow! What a learning experience this has been. I had no idea what goes into these. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't turn down a GIBSON or such if given. But given a choice between a popular brand or a one off hand made such as Taff's, I'd go with a Taff built! (Strictly for example, I know there are others here who put their hearts into their work.) Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Hi, Just like a short [probably not] word here on a couple of points. Its great when I hear folk putting thought into their builds, so if I can will expand on a couple of points.
When I hear "truss rod" mentioned I think of an adjustable "round rod" or a combination of two round rods. These are of course adjustable so as to add some controlled relief to the fingerboard.
The other term I would use is neck reinforcement. This would be non adjustable and be in the form of steel flat bar [round will not reinforce well unless overly large] however I think tube or channel will work satisfactory, as well as aluminium, carbon fibre, and hardwood. I have used all of the above as well as combinations of some.
If using neck reinforcement in a lap steel neck, like I do in my square neck Dobro style Resonator guitars, a solid bar is what I use. I have used steel but mainly carbon fibre. The fingerboards on lap slide guitars do not require relief as they are flat and the strings higher.
Regarding neck timber. In nearly all neck timbers the choice is traditionally for 1/4 sawn timber, for stability. An exception would be Rock Maple necks on electric guitars that are often slab cut. One would think that a laminated neck would be naturally stronger, but I think it would depend on the orientation of the grains, and number of laminations.
Picture of one of my resonator necks sawn through [don't ask, long story] showing carbon fibre reinforcement.
Taff
Amazing input, I will take it into consideration.
This thread is becoming quite the treasure trove for me, thank you all for that :)
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