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Top 10 Cigar Box Guitar Building Hacks

Cigar Box Nation member, Gary Sheldon started an amazing discussion on cigar box guitar building hacks. We just had to share a few nuggets with you:

Table Salt & Glue Hack: When doing a difficult glue joint, like a fretboard or scarf joint, put a tiny tiny pinch of table salt on the glue after spreading it. It does a great job of letting the pieces grip each other without slipping while applying clamps.
Paraffin Wax & Tiny Screws Hack: When installing those tiny screws on the back of the tuning machines, rub the screw threads over a bar of soap or parafin wax to make them easier to drive and lessen the probability of stripping the screw head.
Tuner Spacing: Keep about an inch and a half distance from the nut to the nearest tuner post. It'll give you less string hop, better string path, better pressure on the nut.
Stringing Hack: When stringing a CBG, once you pull the string through the ferrule/rivet and the ball end is tight against the bottom, bend the string on the top side at the string ferrule/rivet... Keeps the string from running away on you.
Testing The Box: Don't glue a box closed until you've played it a bit... Sometimes the oddest things cause buzzing and it's hard to fix if you already glued it closed.
Laquer Curing Tip: If you use spray lacquer to clean up a box's finish, or protect a label, let it dry at least 5 days before you put a clamp on it... or at least put some wax paper between the clamp and the box.
Glue Tip: Allow glue to tack up before joining.
Planning is Everything: Always maximize the materials. Think of the most economic way to use/cut materials. This comes from planning...
Wax on Fret Saw Hack: Candlewax on your fretsaw makes cutting the slots easier on very hard wood.
Community of Friends: Use everybody as a resource. I am so inspired by the people on this site/community.

Do you have a cigar box guitar building hack? Share it with us here!

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on March 27, 2016 at 9:22am

I'll send ya some in the mail Wayfinder. LOL Little Dog, big dog or cat?

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on March 27, 2016 at 9:20am

Some of the hangers are 1/4" diameter and some are 5/16ths". Also, you may find some hollow area through the center of the hangers, but should be able to get enough pieces to do a board from one hanger. The hangers come in White, Blue, Black, Red and Gray and the best part is they are cheap.

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Permalink Reply by William Allman on August 11, 2016 at 3:54am

Always thought this would be a great idea but every time I try I get a hole in the center of the hanger

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Permalink Reply by Pickedmoor Jon on August 11, 2016 at 5:58am

Hi Will, you could try knitting needles too.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on August 11, 2016 at 11:18am

Some have more holes through the center than others. On those hangers, I've found that cutting from the area near the ends or junction areas are better for solid pieces. Sometimes you'll get a very small hole no matter where you cut along with some white-ish discoloring that actually looks pretty good.

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Permalink Reply by Pickedmoor Jon on May 5, 2016 at 12:30am

You are a very bad man Wayfinder, you'll have the kiddies crying.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on March 22, 2016 at 8:22am

If you have ever done a neck scarf joint, you now how hard it is to clamp. I did a dry mockup/fit with clamps and drilled 2 small pilot holes(1 on each side of the trussrod). Then I unclamped the assembly, glued it up and put the 2 pieces together and ran 2 wood screws into the holes to "clamp it together" overnight. Backed the screws out after it had dried. drilled the holes to 1/4" and glued 2 pieces of 1/4" wooden dowels in the holes. Cut flush and sand smooth.

A fret board covers the dowels on the front so they are only visible from the back.

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Permalink Reply by Kigar on March 22, 2016 at 2:41pm

I did similar but used two small screws from the top side (under the fretboard). They did not go very deep into the angle piece and did not go thru. Glued, secured screws, and clamped. I left them there, they were totally hidden by the fretboard.

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Permalink Reply by BP - RabidSalad - on March 22, 2016 at 12:56pm

I use the staple method as well... Just make sure that the staple length is along the grain of the wood and not across. I put one staple at either end, place the fretboard where its to go and give the end a tap with a hammer to seat the staples. Take apart, glue and refit and clamp... Only way it could get easier is if someone else did it for you. You can do this with scarf joints as well...

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Permalink Reply by Alan Hergert on August 4, 2016 at 6:02pm

000 steel wool. Puts a nice shine on the neck/fret board.

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Permalink Reply by Pickedmoor Jon on August 4, 2016 at 9:58pm

When gluing and clamping the scarf joint I have done this, Spread the glue and then sprinkle a little salt onto the glue, when the clamp engages the salt embeds into the wood and doesn't slip, I use this on some of the joinery works I do as well.

Just read the notes and that was the first one, sorry my bad

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Permalink Reply by Jonno on August 5, 2016 at 1:45am

All good tips for a noob like myself. One thing I have really learned is to make sure ya scale length you choose isnt too long for ya box (after you've gone and fretted a fretboard only to later discover the bridge is beyond the box. Ouch). This is probably a common novice mistake involving not thinking things out.