After many cigar box guitars, I've taken on a ukulele project. Without steel strings driving the top, I'm thinking more about the top thickness.
On a lid for the same box that I was using to test sound hole size and placement, I thought I would try thinning it with a router, but leave the areas untouched that would normally be braced. (Like I did around these holes.)
Any idea how well this would work? Should I also add bracing in addition? It will be an attached bridge...
Chickened out a bit, and did a bit of a combo...routed the top thinner except where I wanted bracing, then did a full lateral brace on top of one of the strips, and thin fan braces on two others. Also went with a bridge plate that I sandwiched a piezo pickup between that and the top.
It turned out really well, with one unrelated caveat: forgot to figure in the neck angle with the pre-made bridge, and there's going to be a limit to how low I can get the action, though it's pretty good right now, and well in tune.
Might try shaving the bridge...thinking from the top, though, rather than the bottom...
I've built exactly one with bracing. It has a pair of 1.5 inch holes on either side near the neck attachment point. One brace perpendicular to the strings about an inch back from the holes. Loudest one I've built. Working on a second made from an identical box. I'm going to skip the bracing to compare...I can always go back and add it if necessary.
Um I would guess by looking at the photos that any advantage would be lost by using such large holes? That removed a lot of the surface area that could otherwise be vibrating I think. I've only done one braced top, and it was on a uke. It is still pretty quiet but I did not also build a sister w/o bracing to compare. I also used a fairly large sound hole on it.
Paul Marchese > BluesheartDecember 29, 2016 at 1:08am
Yes, if the holes were that big, it would. Remember...that was a test lid to test placement and size of the sound hole, then attempting thinning...this is not the actual lid I'll be using. Just the same brand and box style.
Bluesheart > Paul MarcheseDecember 29, 2016 at 5:25pm
It's been done, to wonderful effect, by CBN member rodney fruits: https://api.ning.com/files/1nllk9brBTue7cMiTMM88*8bBiaK2bm0gL3-0DQi-j4zplqAm45zatO49w3fc95szA*Gvnl-38SvRJpUjNaD0Gl45lmjR*4j/cbg001.JPG
wouldnt it just be easier to replace the soundboard with a thinner ply? you could experiment with either x bracing or simple fan bracing. it shouldn't need too much bracing for a uke... you could also scallop the bracing to reduce weight of the sound board.
wouldnt you need to get the ply down to around 1/8th or 3mm for a uke? too thick a soundboard wont resonate as much.
Wow, don't get me started on bracing, such a broad subject. If you think about "why" bracing is used it will help you make decisions about when, where, how high, how wide.
Braces do two things mainly, support the top and tailor sound/tone.
If you check out Cole Clark guitars made here in aAustralia they use the routed brace idea. As well as braced tops. I've done quite a few repairs on them so have looked inside many of them. For my money I would go bracing, much more effective in a small box.
You may have to start off with a top 5/8" thick to rout away most of it to get a brace standing 1/2" high where you need it.
Cheers Taff
Replies
Chickened out a bit, and did a bit of a combo...routed the top thinner except where I wanted bracing, then did a full lateral brace on top of one of the strips, and thin fan braces on two others. Also went with a bridge plate that I sandwiched a piezo pickup between that and the top.
It turned out really well, with one unrelated caveat: forgot to figure in the neck angle with the pre-made bridge, and there's going to be a limit to how low I can get the action, though it's pretty good right now, and well in tune.
Might try shaving the bridge...thinking from the top, though, rather than the bottom...
IMG_0620.JPG
IMG_0632.JPG
IMG_0612.JPG
That was a good idea with the bracing route.
Um I would guess by looking at the photos that any advantage would be lost by using such large holes? That removed a lot of the surface area that could otherwise be vibrating I think. I've only done one braced top, and it was on a uke. It is still pretty quiet but I did not also build a sister w/o bracing to compare. I also used a fairly large sound hole on it.
OH I guess I missed that part. Thanks.
https://api.ning.com/files/1nllk9brBTue7cMiTMM88*8bBiaK2bm0gL3-0DQi-j4zplqAm45zatO49w3fc95szA*Gvnl-38SvRJpUjNaD0Gl45lmjR*4j/cbg001.JPG
wouldnt it just be easier to replace the soundboard with a thinner ply? you could experiment with either x bracing or simple fan bracing. it shouldn't need too much bracing for a uke... you could also scallop the bracing to reduce weight of the sound board.
wouldnt you need to get the ply down to around 1/8th or 3mm for a uke? too thick a soundboard wont resonate as much.
Braces do two things mainly, support the top and tailor sound/tone.
If you check out Cole Clark guitars made here in aAustralia they use the routed brace idea. As well as braced tops. I've done quite a few repairs on them so have looked inside many of them. For my money I would go bracing, much more effective in a small box.
You may have to start off with a top 5/8" thick to rout away most of it to get a brace standing 1/2" high where you need it.
Cheers Taff