ok guys and gals, here is the deal, just recently (bout 2 weeks ago) finished m 2 string cbbg, eyebolt tuners made from 1X2 stick with an angled head made by cutting and glueing. i am getting ready to start the next project for fun and it will be a 4 string. using 1X3 instead of 1X2 for this one. here is where i need suggestions, basically what would cigarboxnation like to see me build? there are a couple of catagories and multiple options within each.
Head:
1-Angled head by cutting and gluing (long cut)
2- angled head by cutting and gluing (45 degree cut)
3-straight heat with reverse tuners (meaning that the strings pass through the neck after the nut and are tightened on the back side)
4- side mount tuners with string guides
Box:
1- thick wooden box as i have on old
2- paper wrapped thinner box
pickups:
1- piezo pickups (just figured out the best way to get the best sound out of the box with peizo's)
2- cmagnetic coil pickup mounted to body (via cutting a notch out of the stick)
3- both with a switch in between to switch betwqeen the 2 choices
body:
1- acoustic style (box)
2- Electric style (board)
3- acoustic style with optional solid wiring and switch between the 2 so it can be over driven
thats what i am arguing with myself between so please lemme know. if you want more information on eyebolt tuners feel free to ask here or send a PM to crow (or look at his videos as he has perfected their use)
thank you everyone for any and all suggestions. also if there are other options i am not thinking of feel free to mention them.
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thanks for the solid suggestion, actually the way we do eyebolt tuners has worked very wel for bass strings so far, i have made a 2 string bass out of popler with eyebolt tuners and actual bass strings, works beautifully.
Wes Yates said:
ok, first of all, ii amm using the 1X3 because i am using actuall bass strings which are considerably thicker than normal strings so thus i need the extra space. i dont have the ability to really laminate anything so laminating multiple pieces together is pretty much out of the question, i dont have a means of cutting a hole in the head for the channeled headstock idea because i LOVE the looks of that, but simply cant do it, another main reason for the 1X3 is i am not using standard tuners, i am using eyebolt tuners which the eyelets are rather large compared to normal tuners. i appreciate the diferences in the boxes i simply thought the choices were thick wood or thin wood so i will take more care in picking out a box. thanks again for the suggestions and i will see what i can do with them, hope this reply better answers your questions
Oh ok, I see now. You didn't mention bass strings to begin with. You actually can laminate pieces. A 1x3 simply won't be strong enough to withstand the bend unless its really hard wood and then... . Just get some Titebond and some clamps, glue the wide faces together and voila - laminated neck. Clamps are cheap enough.
I would really think about getting real tuners instead of eyebolts being that the eyebolts might not stand up to the tension of the bass strings. Real bass string tuners are designed for that. I tried eyebolts on my first 4 string and it was a mess.
For the question of electric/acoustic -- go electric. Solid body (no matter the box size, but I would try to find the longest/widest box I could get. Perhaps 1" - 1.25" deep). If you get a box make it solid by adding wood to the inside. MDF/pressboard can do that or you can add plywood. Just have to make it the right depth.
ok, first of all, ii amm using the 1X3 because i am using actuall bass strings which are considerably thicker than normal strings so thus i need the extra space. i dont have the ability to really laminate anything so laminating multiple pieces together is pretty much out of the question, i dont have a means of cutting a hole in the head for the channeled headstock idea because i LOVE the looks of that, but simply cant do it, another main reason for the 1X3 is i am not using standard tuners, i am using eyebolt tuners which the eyelets are rather large compared to normal tuners. i appreciate the diferences in the boxes i simply thought the choices were thick wood or thin wood so i will take more care in picking out a box. thanks again for the suggestions and i will see what i can do with them, hope this reply better answers your questions
Oh ok, I see now. You didn't mention bass strings to begin with. You actually can laminate pieces. A 1x3 simply won't be strong enough to withstand the bend unless its really hard wood and then... . Just get some Titebond and some clamps, glue the wide faces together and voila - laminated neck. Clamps are cheap enough.
I would really think about getting real tuners instead of eyebolts being that the eyebolts might not stand up to the tension of the bass strings. Real bass string tuners are designed for that. I tried eyebolts on my first 4 string and it was a mess.
For the question of electric/acoustic -- go electric. Solid body (no matter the box size, but I would try to find the longest/widest box I could get. Perhaps 1" - 1.25" deep). If you get a box make it solid by adding wood to the inside. MDF/pressboard can do that or you can add plywood. Just have to make it the right depth.
ok, first of all, ii amm using the 1X3 because i am using actuall bass strings which are considerably thicker than normal strings so thus i need the extra space. i dont have the ability to really laminate anything so laminating multiple pieces together is pretty much out of the question, i dont have a means of cutting a hole in the head for the channeled headstock idea because i LOVE the looks of that, but simply cant do it, another main reason for the 1X3 is i am not using standard tuners, i am using eyebolt tuners which the eyelets are rather large compared to normal tuners. i appreciate the diferences in the boxes i simply thought the choices were thick wood or thin wood so i will take more care in picking out a box. thanks again for the suggestions and i will see what i can do with them, hope this reply better answers your questions
Wes Yates said:
Nox,
Interesting thoughts. Couple of questions/comments tho:
- Why 1x3 instead of 1x2? 4 string CBGs will easily fit on the 2" (1.5") side and will have a greater string separation than on a 6 stringer. Plus you will have to laminate 2 or 3 pieces to get the 3" you want. I would suggest a laminated neck with (2) 1x2s and cut the neck profile perpendicular to the joint (see my site blog for plans and my pics of the laminated neck).
- I have been doing neck (headstocks) at a [standard] 13deg. You could do one at 45 but that might bind the strings at the nut. Reverse tuners, tho look neat seem to be a pain in the (b)ass. I would do a channeled slot like on a classical guitar or violin. I did that and it worked fantastic (again, see my pics).
- 4- side mount tuners with string guides Eh? if you mean like a standard 6-string guitar, this is very common. In fact, I've never used string guides but that's because I design the head not to need them.
- Box with panels somewhere ~1/4". Any thicker and you might not get adequate resonance. This is NOT a rule nor is it even a guideline. Just a suggestion. Some boxes are pressed cardboard (PUNCH) and some are plywood (Arturo Fuente) and some are solid (Oliva). I have some of each and tho they do sound different, I think that all of them have their own good qualities. One way I can tell the difference between cardboard and wood is if I can bend/warp the lid, its cardboard.
As for the rest, sounds like you can answer your own questions. On the acoustic, think about putting in at least a piezo. That way you can have the acoustic and mic'd if you want. A piezo is in effect a microphone.
Interesting thoughts. Couple of questions/comments tho:
- Why 1x3 instead of 1x2? 4 string CBGs will easily fit on the 2" (1.5") side and will have a greater string separation than on a 6 stringer. Plus you will have to laminate 2 or 3 pieces to get the 3" you want. I would suggest a laminated neck with (2) 1x2s and cut the neck profile perpendicular to the joint (see my site blog for plans and my pics of the laminated neck).
- I have been doing neck (headstocks) at a [standard] 13deg. You could do one at 45 but that might bind the strings at the nut. Reverse tuners, tho look neat seem to be a pain in the (b)ass. I would do a channeled slot like on a classical guitar or violin. I did that and it worked fantastic (again, see my pics).
- 4- side mount tuners with string guides Eh? if you mean like a standard 6-string guitar, this is very common. In fact, I've never used string guides but that's because I design the head not to need them.
- Box with panels somewhere ~1/4". Any thicker and you might not get adequate resonance. This is NOT a rule nor is it even a guideline. Just a suggestion. Some boxes are pressed cardboard (PUNCH) and some are plywood (Arturo Fuente) and some are solid (Oliva). I have some of each and tho they do sound different, I think that all of them have their own good qualities. One way I can tell the difference between cardboard and wood is if I can bend/warp the lid, its cardboard.
As for the rest, sounds like you can answer your own questions. On the acoustic, think about putting in at least a piezo. That way you can have the acoustic and mic'd if you want. A piezo is in effect a microphone.
quick note, i know there are VERY intresting and unique ways of doing head stocks and bodies, this will be a "stick on" design in that the stick will sit ontop of the box and preferably 1 or 2 cuts total. the tools at my disposal are a chop saw, table saw, and sand paper. please keep in mind when making suggestions that arent in the list, the simpler the better.
Replies
Wes Yates said:
Oh ok, I see now. You didn't mention bass strings to begin with. You actually can laminate pieces. A 1x3 simply won't be strong enough to withstand the bend unless its really hard wood and then... . Just get some Titebond and some clamps, glue the wide faces together and voila - laminated neck. Clamps are cheap enough.
I would really think about getting real tuners instead of eyebolts being that the eyebolts might not stand up to the tension of the bass strings. Real bass string tuners are designed for that. I tried eyebolts on my first 4 string and it was a mess.
For the question of electric/acoustic -- go electric. Solid body (no matter the box size, but I would try to find the longest/widest box I could get. Perhaps 1" - 1.25" deep). If you get a box make it solid by adding wood to the inside. MDF/pressboard can do that or you can add plywood. Just have to make it the right depth.
-WY
Wes Yates said:
Interesting thoughts. Couple of questions/comments tho:
- Why 1x3 instead of 1x2? 4 string CBGs will easily fit on the 2" (1.5") side and will have a greater string separation than on a 6 stringer. Plus you will have to laminate 2 or 3 pieces to get the 3" you want. I would suggest a laminated neck with (2) 1x2s and cut the neck profile perpendicular to the joint (see my site blog for plans and my pics of the laminated neck).
- I have been doing neck (headstocks) at a [standard] 13deg. You could do one at 45 but that might bind the strings at the nut. Reverse tuners, tho look neat seem to be a pain in the (b)ass. I would do a channeled slot like on a classical guitar or violin. I did that and it worked fantastic (again, see my pics).
- 4- side mount tuners with string guides Eh? if you mean like a standard 6-string guitar, this is very common. In fact, I've never used string guides but that's because I design the head not to need them.
- Box with panels somewhere ~1/4". Any thicker and you might not get adequate resonance. This is NOT a rule nor is it even a guideline. Just a suggestion. Some boxes are pressed cardboard (PUNCH) and some are plywood (Arturo Fuente) and some are solid (Oliva). I have some of each and tho they do sound different, I think that all of them have their own good qualities. One way I can tell the difference between cardboard and wood is if I can bend/warp the lid, its cardboard.
As for the rest, sounds like you can answer your own questions. On the acoustic, think about putting in at least a piezo. That way you can have the acoustic and mic'd if you want. A piezo is in effect a microphone.
-WY