Current build is a practice guitar with blues scale fretting. I had made the neck a la Shane's design with the little channel above the recessed neck.
A dimensional error forced rework of the recess so I lost the piezo rod position. Will it work to glue the rod to the underside of the top, glue a couple small rails along it's sides and have it set on a thin piece err of white closed cell foam for upward pressure? And does the rod need to be cut down from 6 to 3 wafers?
The last 3 I've built I placed the rod piezo under the bridge in a snug fitting rabbit not under the soundboard. I make the bridge .5 or .75 wide at the base and tapering on both sides to .25 at the top a .25 hole drilled through the soundboard still gives me room to intonate.
You don't have to cut the piezo but if you choose too just cut between the 3rd and 4th with a sharp chisel and a lite tap of a hammer. easy peasey works great.
Yea, I was sloppy with my description. Per instructions, it goes under the bridge, in this case a large eye bolt a la Shane. But if you mean embedded in a wood saddle, that's not my design.
Hi, if you want strong even sound from all strings, you are best to install it the way it was designed to be fitted, so that the string pressure it right over the crystal area pushing down.
I have fitted hundreds of these under saddle piezo's and even the most expensive of then can work bad or not at all if not installed as intended.
I think you are over thinking this, hot glue you piezo rod to the neck or sound board does not matter which. Then while it is still warm place some card stock over it and press fit top and neck together.
This is not my preferred way, but I screwed up the "Shane" design and I'm trying to approach it from reverse...
Hi, yes I've been accused of over thinking things before. When I reply I usually (one) explain the function of the persons enquiry, the what,when why, sort of stuff so that they can use their own thinking as to the remedy.
And (two) I only talk from past experiences, so I can let people know what happens for me, and again leave others to do the thinking of doing the same or not.
And of course not all I share is down to me, so many other builders building all sorts of instruments have shared their ideas and methods with me.
If James was to do it his suggested way that's fine but from experience I know you need pressure for that style of pickup to work, as designed. But If sandwiched between neck and top it has more pressure. More pressure better sound.
I may try a thru slot in the lid and pressure foam on the neck pressing the rod into the eye bolt. The top of this box sits flat on the box sides, and I have the thin plywood to make another if needed.
Shane Speal has a video where he hot glues them on the inside, sandwiched between the lid and through neck piece.
That was my original plan, but a fix-it eliminated the rails on the neck. Think of my design as being upside down , the foam is to provide pressure against the lid when it's compressed...
Hi James if you can give it a try before closing every thing up, would be good.
I tried three things, in the past and before responding.
Pickup mounted as you suggest. with hard foam providing pressure. Little to low volume with amp turned up. Pushed with fingers up against the the top and strum, a bit better, same volume on amp. Changed to small disc piezo using same method, nearly blew the speaker out of my amp.
Let us know how your idea works, would be interesting.
Sure. I don't seal my boxes. Screwed shut well, but not glued.