So I just got a 30s-40s Supertone. From some preliminary research, I believe it is the 220 model - the 3/4 model of the 219 (which is the standard version of the "Gene Autry" - 216) which was produced in 1941. I haven't been able to find a picture of the 219 or 216 models but did find the 243 Gene Autry "Round Up" that was made from 1936-39. This guitar has the same finish, bridge/pins, etc. as the "Round Up." The thing that makes me think 40s is the difference in headstock. It isn't slotted like so many of the 30s (including the Round Up).There are a couple of stamped numbers in it to add more to the confusion. Up near the neck it is stamped 647 (produced in '47?). Then there is another stamp right in the sound hole that I can't make out because half is on the wood and the other half is on the label and has faded. Judging by what I can read of the bottom half of this stamp is *possibly* S-3(there's another number here that I can't make out). This stamp has an oval around it. That's what leads me to believe its a late-30s build. Anyway, that's not even the perplexing thing about this guitar.

The neck is hugely warped but I was going to go at it with a slide for the most part anyway. Strings 6 through 2 sound dandy. The first string is what's driving me up the wall. I seem to be getting 2 clashing tones out of it with the slide and fretted (it's not the ghost tone that comes from behind the slide). Has anyone else ever had issues with clashing overtones in either your own build or something else? The other info I'll offer up is that the intonation is really off. I know that having the strings too high will contribute but even the 12th fret harmonics are really off. Strings 6 through 2 are relatively good over the 12th fret (3rd string is right on) but the first string's octave harmonic is past the 13th fret. I can't visually see anything that would make this happen. Any insight would be great!
Oh, here's some eye candy!


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  • Yes and no. It is still definitely solid...all the glue is still great! It has been played really hard over the years. You can see where the pick has scratched it up but it actually goes through where the sound hole meets the fingerboard. Plenty of character though! Thanks for the comment!


    Bluesheart said:
    Some nice blues there Ben. I agree with Kenny that the vintage instrument just makes it that much better. That thing looks like it is in good condition.
  • Some nice blues there Ben. I agree with Kenny that the vintage instrument just makes it that much better. That thing looks like it is in good condition.
  • Ya, buddy! Sounding good. I love these old little guitars. It is so romantic to be playing an instrument from the same time period as the music. 70 years old! Enjoy.
  • So the ghost note problem cleared up with a new set of heavier strings. I think the slightly thicker 1st string is now creating more of a break at the bridge. Here are a couple of tunes you may recognize!
  • Nothing better than a free gift. Especially a vintage guitar. Enjoy.
  • Thanks for the quick reply Keni Lee. I had considered where the saddle contacts the strings as being the problem. The saddle is really low at the first string. I know they've got issues but the price was right (did I mention it was free?). It was kinda cool, the guitar belonged to the guy's grandmother. There were some really old, handwritten charts of old 30s and 40s tunes in the case. Nice little surprise!
  • Ya, I would go with the 40's too. That solid headstock is usually a dead give away. Supertone was a store brand of Sears. Many companies made guitars for them under this name. Records are few and far between.
    Your problem could be caused by the nut or the bridge contact with the strings. Consider that as the neck lifts, you are loosing the downward pull on the strings that cuts them correctly at either the nut or the bridge. The action getting higher is only one result of the neck lifting. Regarding resonator guitars, this problem is even worse because you lose the downward pressure on the cone. The cone either does not ring correctly or rattles. Resetting a neck is an attempt to correct problems in a half ass way. The bow in the neck is still there. They just re-pitch the angle. To do it correctly (and it isn't worth the time or money on such a low end instrument) you would have to straighten the neck first. Possibly install a truss rod. Hell, if you go that far, you might as well put on a new neck! I love old vintage guitars, but they are prone to have serious problems like an 80 year old man. LOL Enjoy the reality. Regardless a nice cool old guitar. Keni Lee
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