I'm still in the aquiring parts and watching videos and planning stage. At this point I only play the radio but hoping that changes.
Wondering why I don't see people doing anything to protect the paper graphics on their boxes.
Gitty's phone dosen't seem to accept calls from Canada so could someone reccomend a set of 3 strings for a frettless 25 inch scale and would this change if the guitar had fretts?
I plan to just use a simple piezo under th bridge with a volume control.
Thanks in advance Frank
Replies
Hello, Frank, and welcome to you,
As far as protecting graphics on boxes, there are different schools of thought.
Some folks like the worn look that an unprotected surface will eventually acquire with heavy playing.
Although I do think that can be a cool look, I like to protect them, using various types of clear spray finishes, acrylic, poly, maybe other types.
I really can't remember everything I've ever used.
When I first started building CBGs, I just used up old clear, spray finishes that I had sitting in my basement.
I prefer semi-gloss over gloss finishes.
CBGs, to my way of thinking, are far too imperfect for a gloss finish to look good on them.
I've been using Gitty's Blues Blasters on my fretless G,d,g tuned 25.5" 3-stringers for years.
They're 44W, 34W, and 26W.
That's what they were the last time that I bought them, anyway.
I use slightly lighter versions on some of my fretted 3-stringers.
42W, 30W, and 22W, is what I just measured that's on one of my fretted 25.5" G,d,g tuned 3-stringers.
Those strings were from Gitty, too, but I don't know their item stock number offhand at the moment.
The lighter versions are a tad easier on the fingers, maybe, than the Blues Blasters would be if used on a fretted neck.
I like the grit of the heavier Blues Blaster strings when using a slide.
They have a really "dirty" bluesy sound.
A 0.5" scale difference from my 25.5" to your 25" is no problem.
Gitty has some sets where they'll combine heavy or medium strings for the 2nd and 3rd strings with a very light string for the 1st string to, in some cases, be tuned an octave higher than the standard Gdg or EBe tunings, for example.
I wouldn't recommend them to a beginner.
You'll find different definitions for musical terminology depending on where you look online.
Gitty's terminology as far as Low - Medium - High, and octave designations go, is their own terminology.
It doesn't match a lot of the terminology of the mainstream musical world, although Gitty's language does make sense within their own world, once you understand it.
I had to do some altering of my musical thinking when I first began to look at their website.
I saw that you mentioned a 23" scale in another response.
You need to start going with heavier strings with that significant of a difference in scale from 25".
There are other considerations regarding scale length, also.
I use 23" and 21" scale lengths for 4 string tenor tunings, where all the strings are tuned a musical "fifth" (seven frets or seven half-steps) apart from each other.
There are reasons why different scale lengths are used for different tunings, to accomodate fingerings for chords and the playing of melodies in those tunings.
The scale length is not merely selected because somebody says, "Hey, I think I'll make a CBG with this size scale length now".
Anyone can do whatever they want to, of course, but they'll find that they probably won't like playing a scale length that's not tuned for its usually intended setup.
That's not a problem, either, though.
Just change the tuning to one that works better for that scale length and learn how to play it that way!
Fun, fun, fun!!!
It can take some time to learn that sort of stuff.
I noticed that you mentioned that you're 81.
Good for you that you're digging into a new hobby.
I'm 66, have been playing stringed instruments since I was a teenager, but I got into CBGs only about 6 years ago.
They're loads of fun to mess with.
I think that this a hobby that helps keep the mind sharp, in the contemplation of different scale lengths, tunings, build types, amplification, etc.
D'Addario has an online string tension calculator that I use when I'm trying to select strings for certain different setups.
It's called "String Tension Pro".
It has no specific category for CBGs, and it takes a little bit of getting used to using it, but I've found it to be invaluable in choosing strings for all of my instruments, CBGs or store-bought traditional instruments.
The goal is to get relatively even tension across all the strings with the tension being neither so low that the strings are sloppy, nor so high that the strings break, or that they stress the heck out of the neck of your instrument.
15 lbs. per string is about what I've found to be a good midpoint tension, regardless of scale length, with workable tension going down to maybe 12 lbs. and upwards into the low 20s.
Into the 20s is getting up there a bit, though, and 12lbs. might be borderline muddy sounding or too sloppy feeling to you.
I've accumulated tons of extra strings over the years, so I do a lot of experimenting with diameters and tensions.
I make and use what Justin Johnson calls a "bottle-cap" piezo, mounted about a inch or so to the side of the underside of the bass end of the bridge.
I learned how to make them from a YouTube video with Justin Johnson being at some other guy's shop who was making them.
If you haven't heard of him, Justin is a big-name online CBG guy, who shares lots of great information and who can play the daylights out of anything with a string on it.
I haven't been able to find that specific "bottle-cap" piezo video any more, though it still might be out there.
Supposedly, they "tame" the sometimes "too wild" sensitivity of a bare piezo somewhat.
I think that they do, anyway.
To make one, take an ordinary bottle cap, dig out the layer of semi-rubbery sealant layer that's inside the cap with a little screwdriver or a toothpick, snip a little opening/slot into the side of the cap for the piezo leads to exit the cap, then get a hot-glue gun heated up with plenty of glue stick available to you as needed.
Of course, the piezo being used needs to be the proper diameter to fit inside the cap.
Solder your leads to the piezo if it's not prewired.
Being careful to not introduce any air bubbles into the glue, put a thin layer of hot glue in the cap, just enough to provide a flat surface across the inside of the bottle cap, then press the piezo into that still-hot layer of glue, with the leads facing up out of the cap towards you and routed through the slot in the cap that you pre-cut, again, being careful not to trap any air under the piezo, then once the glue has cooled just enough so that adding additional glue won't disturb the placement of the piezo in the bottle cap, fill the remainder of the bottle cap flush and level to the edges of the cap and let it cool.
Again, be careful to prevent getting air bubbles in the glue.
Air bubbles will cause sonic problems once you go to playing your creation through an amp.
When you're ready to install the "bottle-cap piezo" in your CBG, get your hot glue gun heated up again, add a layer of glue to the glue in the bottle cap and place it where desired.
Hold it in place until the glue cools.
Remember, no air bubbles.
I've had to move them a time or two from where I originally installed them, due to some heavy feedback problems.
That's not much of a problem to deal with, either, carefully using a razor blade to cut through the glue holding it to the underside of the cigar box lid, then regluing it to your newly chosen, hopefully better sounding, location.
Good luck to you!
Hi Frank and welcome. Your question on protection is covered well already, I was going to suggest a rattle can spray that I have seen advertised.
Regarding the strings and fretted or not fretted neck question. Whatever strings you choose for the guitar the tone will change slightly, they may sound brighter. This is due to the metal-on-metal contact of string on frets as opposed to the string under soft finger-on-wood contact. Sustain will also improve with a fretted fingerboard.
I play slide but incorporate finger on frets as well.
You did not mention what piezo sensor you planned to use. I suspect a disc. There are three main types, Flat disc, which is the most common and easy to install, and strip piezo, which comes as a solid strip, or a flexible rope. The strip transducers sit under the saddle of the bridge for the best responce.
With the disc variety, one can move them around to get a tonal response they like, or to limit feed back.
I a recent post here, last week, I talked about bridge setup, it might be helpful to check that out too. You can't gather too much info at the start, Enjoy
Taff
Here's a video of the simplest Square one cbg build: Fretless slider-
https://youtu.be/pmzvfyOizV8?si=YWUj2ig-0IXXLSqD
Great video, super find, the best advice possible. Awesome, Brian 👍 👌 👏
We use polyurethane & water based finish to protect the paper, but most people like them when they show signs of wear, this is what we call "mojo"?
Here is an article from gitty about strings, and no it does not change if it's fretted or fretless? FYI- gitty's customer service is quite knowledgeable, but the best way to connect with them is through the website?
https://www.cigarboxguitar.com/knowledge-base/open-g-gdg-tuning-on-...
My apologies for not mentioning about paper graphic preservation. There's a p4oduct over here in the UK, but I'm pretty sure that the product originated in the USA anyway.. For the preservation of wood I'm a big advocate of beeswax because of it being totally natural. For the preservation of all things paper applied to wood, I've had best results from ModPodge.
Do an Internet search for homemade ModPodge using clear PVA glue, as used in arts, crafts, and kindergartens worldwide.
Stay awesome!
Bear
Hey, Frank 👋,
If you're using a piezo pickup then you don't have to have electric guitar strings. However, likewise strinng gauge for string gauge, I do believe electric guitar strings impart less pressure trying to snap and bust to smithereens, your neck and box.
I'd recommend any set of 3-string electric guitar strings for sale on CBGitty. Likewise, any combination of strings from a standard set of 6 string electric guitar strings.
The middle choice of these three options (E, B, e tuning with the A, D, g strings) is the kindest on a homemade instrument and wants to bust it up least with the string pressure imparted by those strings in that tuning. Option one wants to bust your instrument up most, as those strings in that tuning impart the most string pressure per lb.
A pack of three strings, as packed by CBGitty, is the best of all string choices because they are custom sorted to impart maximum sound output for optimum string gauge. If buying from CBGitty, you can literally buy any brand.
One more note is string gauge. Using standard guitar strings as I do, I prefer a pack of 11's. Greater boom for my over-braced style of building. I started my CBG life (some 10 years or so ago) using 9's. Easier on my soft, uncaloused fingers, and easier by string pressure on my novice building.
Have fun, stay awesome!
Bear
Thanks guys I think I have my initial order figured out with most of what I need for the 3 boxes I have on hand.Spent the afternoon gazing at my wood.and putting a dado blade on the table saw. Did a Bit of a clean up of the work room, If my late wife was unsure of the place or purpose of anything it was piled on my work bench. Seems my daughter has inherited the habit. The pile can get quite high as I waste the summer fishing. Ready for tomorrows start.
Frank
Here I go again other than length and closer frett spacing what would be the differences between 25,24,and 23 inch scales?
I built a 16 foot fiberglass and mahogany motor boat when I was 17 now at 81 a box and stick proves chalienging?
Maybe I should have joined the band rather than the hockey team ,