I'm still in the aquiring parts and watching videos and planning stage. At this point I only play the radio but hoping that changes.
Wondering why I don't see people doing anything to protect the paper graphics on their boxes.
Gitty's phone dosen't seem to accept calls from Canada so could someone reccomend a set of 3 strings for a frettless 25 inch scale and would this change if the guitar had fretts?
I plan to just use a simple piezo under th bridge with a volume control.
Thanks in advance Frank
Replies
Does it matter if the strings touch the front end of the frett board ahead of the nut. I took some measurements from the video in this thread but because I added a frettless fretboard to the stick to bring things up 3/16 above the lid. this will steepen the angle of the strings to the tuners. I'm using a 1/4 20 brass bolt as a nut ( which i imagine will stick up 1/8 inch when mounted . can move the nut ahead a tad but not very much . It would be easier to visualize if my tuners strings and other toys would arrive.
Yes, the strings will absolutely deaden if they're hitting the fretboard.
It sounds to me as is a 5/16" bolt would work better as a nut.
Maybe even a 3/8" bolt as a nut, since you'll be playing strictly with a slide anyway.
I noticed that you have a store-bought bridge, also.
Depending on the string action further down the neck once you raise the nut, you may also need to make yourself a taller bridge or add a popsicle stick or something else of appropriate thickness under your existing bridge to get adequate string height above the fretboard.
Those are the same sort of situations that I dealt with on my first build, so welcome to the club.
Regarding your mention to Taffy about the flow of the thread here, it seems a bit odd to me, too.
It's been a while since I've been on CBN until just recently coming back and I started communicating with you.
I don't recall it being this disorganized in the past.
Quote from Taffy Evans Jan 14 25
"Hi, frank. wow, it took a while to find your last post. I thought it would be at the top of the pile."+
I find this board kinda confusing as things don't flow in line from start to finish and if you reply to something someone said it goes off on a tangent.
The only other form I have ever been on is a Muskie Fishing form for about 20 years. There the 2nd post follows the first post on a topic and if you want to reply to a coment you hit a quote button and the posters comment will appear in brackets within yours even if it was 6 pages back. The thread always has the latest comment at the bottom of the last page and thats where the thread opens or you can set it to open at unread posts.
My confusion may either come from advanced age or my mother being an Evans
Hi, frank. wow, it took a while to find your last post. I thought it would be at the top of the pile.
Regarding the finishes mentioned. Linseed oil I find does not dry very quick and although it soaks into the wood for protection it does seem to collect dirt and look grubby after a while.
I find Shellac best for my guitars as a sealer over bare wood and as a finish top coat, it can even be applied over other coatings. A quick four coats that dry before you get to the end of applying it, sand back with 0000 steel wool, and then apply whatever finish you prefer. I always use Danish wax; it gives a soft, smooth gloss.
You can buy it in flakes and mix your own, or in pre-mixed bottles. A little goes a long way. It's what is used in French Polishing, so if you have time on your hands...
Taff
I just about 10 minutes ago measured the 3 string diameters on my feet less Blues Box Guitar. They measured at .036, .028, and .020. I lowered the strings a bit on that super basic cbg, so that I can finger the notes and use a slide. these strings measure a bit smaller than my two fretted 3 stringers. Those are .040, .32, .22, and .40, .32, .20.
One thing you might look into to save a few $$ is buying sets of mandolin strings of the appropriate sizes. You get 2 sets of 3 strings for your 3 string cbg with 2 left unused. If you play a 4 string cbg, you'd get 2 sets and use every string.
Fret markers.
I use Sharpie all the time. I've even found gold and silver Sharpies in some shops! I've tried to save pennies and get cheaper non-Sharpies and regretted it when it comes to sealing everything.Too many times. Sharpie is permanent and tends to stay in place when adding your finish/wood sealer. I personally love beeswax, but linseed oil et al are very popular too. My advice would be to add Sharpie fret markers to some scrap wood. Wait a day for the Sharpie to set (they do like an hour at least, but I have quite a lot of patience with building (a.k.a. I'm a procrastinator 😆) then add your finish of choice to see how it goes.
When doing most things first time (markers, glues, finishes etc) it's always best to use scrap wood than risk your build.
Enjoy! 🙃
Hi again, Frank.
In regards to your neck photos, you are indeed 100% correct. Common practice is that, if space allows, cutting the vibrating channel under the lid (or channelling out for pickup cavities), you'd reinforce where you've cut away on the top piece of wood with more wood glued between that piece of wood and the internal bottom of the box. So your work is looking great so far. If space is limited, you can add supporting "sticks" called bracing on to the bottom of the lid, for extra strength. This can affect vibration volume though, hence folk normally scallop their bracing. Another practice is, if space is short beneath your heel stick or through-stick, then you can brace at the side of that. Shucks, I've even seen folk add a solid wood back board to the external of the box back.
You shouldn't necessarily have to remove the hinges. It helps with getting past the through-stick, but you'd need to be plus (+) 30mm thickness or so of through-stick for an absolute need to remove hinges to get your neck cutout corners past the through-stick edges without issue. Without measurements, and just looking, yours looks fine and no need to remove the hinges. My one bit of advice here is don't remove them until the build has shown you that you have no choice.
Stay awesome!
Bear
Hi, as promised a list that I made from different sources some years ago.
Taff
Hi, I'm back, this is the first thread of posts that has gone any length in a long, long time. Just like in the old days. Bob, wordy is good when it's sharing helpful info. Its also helpful to others when the seeker of information comes back with their views good or not so good.
Frank, you mentioned soundholes. I have read, back in the day, that some have said soundholes do not make a differents, but I'll leave you to make your own findings on this, I've made mine.
I find they do make a difference. As I mentioned air in the box carries soundwaves, air on the outside perimeter of the box carries soundwaves generated by the top, and back [if not damped by a full tummy]. I like to let the airwaves inside out to add tone and volume to that of the outside. you don't want the soundholes to encroach on the vibrating area around the bridge.
I will post again in a while a list of sound tailoring tips.
Cheers Taff
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