I picked up a couple nice cigar boxes one of which is basically an upside down pyramid(only tapered on 2 sides) my concern is the thickness of the lids, they are every bit of 1/4" of hard wood. One is going on display in a cigar store so flipping it over isn't an option because of the lid(Henry Clay War Hawk). Will the thick lid resonate or should I go thicker strings or lighter ones (open G tuning) any suggestions?

25.5" scale

You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!

Join Cigar Box Nation

Email me when people reply –

Replies

  • 2 reason to consider lid on the back.

    1. you can open it and work on electronics and stash stuff in it people like to open the back.

    2. the bottom of the box is sealed to the side and is a much better sound board , lid on back just sound better.

    if you use a piece of wood 3/16 with bracing is the norm. 

    • I agree with you, but the problem is the owner of the cigar shop chose this particular box to be a display/player piece as well as getting my CBGs out there. They also have 2 or 3 other shops that I may be building for.

      • Maybe you need to discuss the issues with the build with the owner of the cigar shop.  If he has no familiarity with guitar building, he may think what he is asking for is simple.  You may both be happier with using a different box.  If you're stressed out, it's more difficult to do a good job.

        • You know what Rick, you are so right. I was so caught up with trying my best to make this work that I wasn't seeing the simplest solution. I've always tried to live by KISS. Just not this time.

  • I'm just putting this out here for thoughts on the matter. I don't know "if" it will work, but I'm at a stand still on work. I planning on putting in an 1/8" false bottom about 1/4" from the real bottom with reverb springs attached to it and sound holes drilled into the lid. The bridge will be constructed from thin vertical Harwood strips with a rod Piezo embedded. The assembly will rest atop 1 or 2 dowels or brass rods extending through the lid to the false bottom. Hoping the vibration will excite the false bottom. Below is a rough drawing.3445338424?profile=RESIZE_710x

    • Hi Will, I will not go in depth on the subject as we are talking simple box design guitars, but I believe the principals used by Luthiers in other forms of acoustic instruments apply Also in the instruments we build here. 

      The back is an important part of the sound producing chain of an instrument, and many builders (me included) have played with bracing ideas to help the back reinforce the work of the strings and the top.

      Double backs have been used in guitars in efforts to improve output and tone for some time, but I have not looked into it myself, so can not give any advice. My first thought was that the posts and/or the springs may dampen the (thinner) back you put in.

      I admire your willingness to try to get more out of a simple box. Try it Will and let us know your findings.

      Cheers Taff

      • Thanks Taff, my idea of the rod was to be a direct link from the bridge to the false bottom. I'm also thinking of using a thin sheet of aluminum.

  • I'd suggest considering a magnetic pickup.  Even if it ends up not sounding good acoustic, it should sound good plugged in.  As long as the pickup looks natural in there and it sounds good plugged in, you should expect it to be a reputation-builder.  It seems like the majority of people like having the option of plugging in and cranking it up.  It's cool that you are making the most out of your opportunity and planning out each step. 

    • Thanks for the advice and encouragement. I also found out only the ends at supported.

      • Hi Will, to resonate efficiently the lid/top is best secured to the sides all round its edges. 

        Taff

This reply was deleted.