So I have built 4 guitars up to this point.I want to build one just for fret playing.Any advice or resources on set up.My other builds the action is high.
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Keep in mind that as you tighten up the three strings, the action will raise a bit. In my builds, I dado the neck (portion that goes inside the box) about 1/16" deeper than the box lid. This lets me put the fretboard over the edge of the box for a better look.
Once it's built, install the nut, then I install the middle string, measure the bridge position (I use a floating bridge) at about 1/8" longer than the measured scale length. Action at the 12th (gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string should be about 0.080" when all three strings are on. , I have a scrap of wood that is 1/16" (0.0625) that I wedge in between the string and the 12th.
Basically, at least on my necks, starting with one string and a 1/16" gap, I get pretty darn close to my ideal 0.080" action at the 12th. At the nut, you want the action really low, like a medium pick thickness... If you are playing slide, some like to go a little higher.
Keep in mind over the neck's first month of life, the action will raise up a bit... I always tell my customers to come back in a month or two, we'll adjust the bridge, and put on new strings... Plus it's good to have the kids come home to visit from time to time...
a good metal rule: meter with mm or yardstick with decimal inches, and use a fret calculator in the same unit type (don't do a fret calculator in inches and try to convert each one to metric)
use a utility knife to mark the frets, use the CBGitty fret saw to cut the slots
Plan your scale length for where the bridge lands on the box, with room to shift the bridge away from the nut anywhere from 1-10mm at a slant to get the bridge compensation for intonation correct.
low action at the nut end, when you press the string between the 2nd and 3rd fret, the gap over the 1st fret should be tiny and need feeler gauges to measure.
The best advice i can give you is to lay it out 1st on paper or a bench top, site your nut and bridge at the scale length you want, then adapt that to get a nut height level, or just above fret height, and a bridge height that will give you a bit over 1/8" at the 12th fret, but try to make it a bit higher than that to allow for any soundboard sinking or compression under tension, you can sand your bridge down later if need be, also take into account string break angle and clearance of any pick ups etc under the strings
Replies
Keep in mind that as you tighten up the three strings, the action will raise a bit. In my builds, I dado the neck (portion that goes inside the box) about 1/16" deeper than the box lid. This lets me put the fretboard over the edge of the box for a better look.
Once it's built, install the nut, then I install the middle string, measure the bridge position (I use a floating bridge) at about 1/8" longer than the measured scale length. Action at the 12th (gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string should be about 0.080" when all three strings are on. , I have a scrap of wood that is 1/16" (0.0625) that I wedge in between the string and the 12th.
There's a tip just posted this week that says to use a wedge to then measure the height of the bridge... (Brilliant!) http://www.cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/feeler-gauge I'll be using that method today!
Basically, at least on my necks, starting with one string and a 1/16" gap, I get pretty darn close to my ideal 0.080" action at the 12th. At the nut, you want the action really low, like a medium pick thickness... If you are playing slide, some like to go a little higher.
Keep in mind over the neck's first month of life, the action will raise up a bit... I always tell my customers to come back in a month or two, we'll adjust the bridge, and put on new strings... Plus it's good to have the kids come home to visit from time to time...
Hope this helps...
a good metal rule: meter with mm or yardstick with decimal inches, and use a fret calculator in the same unit type (don't do a fret calculator in inches and try to convert each one to metric)
use a utility knife to mark the frets, use the CBGitty fret saw to cut the slots
Plan your scale length for where the bridge lands on the box, with room to shift the bridge away from the nut anywhere from 1-10mm at a slant to get the bridge compensation for intonation correct.
low action at the nut end, when you press the string between the 2nd and 3rd fret, the gap over the 1st fret should be tiny and need feeler gauges to measure.
Cheers Taff
The best advice i can give you is to lay it out 1st on paper or a bench top, site your nut and bridge at the scale length you want, then adapt that to get a nut height level, or just above fret height, and a bridge height that will give you a bit over 1/8" at the 12th fret, but try to make it a bit higher than that to allow for any soundboard sinking or compression under tension, you can sand your bridge down later if need be, also take into account string break angle and clearance of any pick ups etc under the strings