I have a cigar box (actually two) which has a recessed lid that is not flat as many are. In making the cut out for my neck to be pushed through the box, should I take a cut into both the bottom part of the side of the box and the top as well or just make the cut out to the lower portion of the side of the box? I see some CBGs with the neck pushed through the box and extended out the other side and some which end at the inside area to one side. Is there really any design being the better choice when the box itself has a recessed lid to it? I hope the term recessed lid is correct for what I am trying to describe here. I Am thinking that it is best to cut into the bottom side, as well as the side of the top of the box, but I wanted to clarify that before I jump in and ruin anything. I am not quite sure just how the neck is supposed to hang over the top of the lid on a recessed lid. Hope that makes sense. My fret board is 24" in length from the nut at one end and the tail end of the fretboard at the opposite end. I am not 100% sure of what scale should be used on this project, but I am not to that point just yet.
I don't know how to link my photos from my albums here.
The black box may end up being the first for me to use on my first build CBG project, as i don't want to destroy the original box I had purchased. Both have the same type of lid on them though, so hopefully I can attach some photos to describe what I am addressing.
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I went by a local cigar store today, but it was too early and they were closed. I did some shopping and almost didn't go back. Lucky for me I did, as the owner gave me my choice of any of the empties he had in stock. Most were simply too small to work for a CBG like I want to build, but not all. Here are just a couple of the ones I took home to play about with. Very nice of the guy and it made my day, for sure. I also picked up some more wood at the local Lowe's. A bit of Tight Bond III and a file/rasp. I even found some various pieces which may work as a nut or even a bridge. I was looking at a slide lock that is done in brass and the barrel of that lock sure looks like it could be notched to work as a bridge. The hinge pin may work as a nut when notched for strings. May or may not work, but just an idea to try out.
The first box design is pretty common for the nicer boxes you'll find. I use a small saw (Harbor Freight Japanese pull saw: $7 ish and worth every penny). A coping saw, or small hacksaw will work, too) You will need to cut the lid and the box to get the neck as high as possible on the box, otherwise your string action will be really high. You'll also need to notch the neck to get the action where it's playable like Ron said.. My first builds were neck-through designs, and I'd start with that just because it's simple and stable. Buy a cheap box of 1/8" pop rivets to use as metal grommets. They'll stop the strings from cutting through the neck.
Re: Bridge and Tail pieces: You don't have to notch either (much) if you don't want to: On a through neck, drill your 3- 1/8" string mounting holes 1/4" from each edge, and one on center. (I assume your neck is a "1x2" which is really 1.5"x.75"). On the tuner side, mount your outer tuners 3/8" in, and one 5/8" in from whichever side the tuner is correct on... You'll have to turn the keys in odd ways compared to a real guitar, but it doesn't affect playability.
The other option is to just use a brass bolt. 1/4" 1.5" brass screws with nuts make great bridges, and #6 or #8 screws work well when you file a small dent with the edge of your rasp.
Of the boxes you have, the deeper ones sound the best, IMHO, unless you're going to add a pickup and an amplifier (Piezos work surprisingly well - use a coil pickup on your 4th build, they're more complicated to install...)
I assume your first build will be unfretted... Build it, have fun! Welcome to the obsession, be sure to post your pics!
John in San Diego, CA
Yes, I just ordered Gittyman's book yesterday and spoke to him a bit via email. I was impressed with the great customer service by him and how quickly he responded to any questions. Very nice to communicate with and he had some excellent tips to help on a first build to save costs and make it all a good experience for the 1st time CBG builder.
I already had the Japan pull saw for some other projects. I keep finding myself looking at all sorts of things to use on this guitar build. Most have no remote association at all with what I'd modify them for, like the latch assembly bolt shown in my other post. I have to keep myself from rushing this project or I'll muck it up. I have to slow down a bit and gather parts first and have a good plan going to make it work okay for me.
I have a fret board blank, but as a first build, I may go with unfretted and just use the metal wire to make the fret markings to the outside of the neck. Although I have a Gibson-style 4 string head stock, I have a 3 string one on order. As a first build, I'll likely go with the other headstock and neck than the Gibson-4 stringer one.
Thanks for the tips and advise. Once I get my parts in, I'll likely be asking more specific quesitons on this first build.
My latest Rocky Patel box is an example of a very nice wood box, but one that probably is not the greatest to start out with in making a first CBG, due to the recessed lid on it. The Punch or Atruro Fuente boxes are probably a better choice, because of their flat lids and ease of cutting to modify.
I think you will find cutting the non-flat lids is less of an issue than you think. I make the vertical cuts, and then yank off the remaining piece with my fingers. The soft wood breaks close to the glue line, and a quick run with a rasp or sandpaper cleans it up nicely...