Does anyone have a problem with chronic fret sprout.I live in New Orleans so humidity and sporadic temperature changes are the norm. I fret,file,and finish my frets well but after a few weeks the tangs will start to protrude from the sides of the fretboard. I'll finish them again and again they'll sprout. I oil the neck and board with Danish oil but don't lacquer or polyurethane them. Would that help seal the wood and keep the ends in. Any other thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
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Thanks guys for the info. Wayfinder, you hit tge nail on the head when you said complaints. I've been building for other people lately and my big concern is selling them a great playing git only to have a fret issue later. I like the idea of cutting the frets shorter. I've been doing 12" radius' on the fretboards lately which makes chording really comfortable so the shorter frets should work well.I'll probably fill the slots on the edge for aesthetics.BTW, for dressing ends I've tried all kinds of methods from taping the board and using a three sided file with a corner ground flat to dressing them before being installed. I use a 220 grit foam sanding block on the edges. It rounds them perfectly and doesn't gouge the fretboard.Also gives em a nice polish. Thanks again. Happy building!
2 pin type moisture meters start at $10, it might be worth getting one and making sure your wood has stabilized to the ambient humidity before building with it.
And I apologize wayfinder, but baking the wood at 300 deg F for an hour doesn't sound like a good idea. That will dry out the surface layer but the core will still be moist, and the imbalance will warp the wood. Also, temperatures much above 180 F will start causing chemical changes and denature the cellulose structures making it weaker, more brittle, more splinter and crack prone. Drying kilns only run at 140-170 deg F or lower depending on the species of wood.
I do a few things to stabilise my fretboards. Our Austalian hardwoods can split and splinter like buggary and so they get a soak in coat of shellac after I slot them. This gets sanded off and the slots cleared with the saw again before installatin. After fretting but before filing the fret ends I put a drop of super glue on the fret ends to wick into the slots.
I then keep by builds in the car for a bit to see how they cope with extremes and to give me something to do while stuck in traffic. They only occasionally need attention to the fret ends after that.
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I found this article that cautions against letting your gits dry out too much, and it talks about fret tangs sticking out the sides.
http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/Fighting_the_Humidity_Battle
2 pin type moisture meters start at $10, it might be worth getting one and making sure your wood has stabilized to the ambient humidity before building with it.
And I apologize wayfinder, but baking the wood at 300 deg F for an hour doesn't sound like a good idea. That will dry out the surface layer but the core will still be moist, and the imbalance will warp the wood. Also, temperatures much above 180 F will start causing chemical changes and denature the cellulose structures making it weaker, more brittle, more splinter and crack prone. Drying kilns only run at 140-170 deg F or lower depending on the species of wood.
I do a few things to stabilise my fretboards. Our Austalian hardwoods can split and splinter like buggary and so they get a soak in coat of shellac after I slot them. This gets sanded off and the slots cleared with the saw again before installatin. After fretting but before filing the fret ends I put a drop of super glue on the fret ends to wick into the slots.
I then keep by builds in the car for a bit to see how they cope with extremes and to give me something to do while stuck in traffic. They only occasionally need attention to the fret ends after that.