Is the 1/4" fretboard height above lid also work allowing for adjusting on an adjustable bridge?
The two builds using adjustable bridges and a 1/4" height above lid to fretboard is resulting in the bridge adjusted to the max and even with a fairly high nut I am still getting fret buzz on the first two frets.
I usually have the 1/4" for floating bridges with piezos with no problems with lower string action and no buzzing
Replies
Hi Brent, glad you found the problem. Thanks for sharing the feedback I think it's important so others can learn from the challenges other builders face and how they fixed it.
Taff
Never had it before but now I know.
Hi Brent, I'm not sure I'm understanding your problem now. It seems you have fret buzz.
I would say that the issue may lie with your fret work. If fret levelling was done with a straight bar with sandpaper on one surface and all the Sharpie/Texta marks are evenly removed and the frets recrowned and polished and the fingerboard was dead flat when you did all this. The frets should be flat/level, unless.......the offending frets are loose in their slots and pop up again after the leveling bar passes over. Do a rocker test again, and make sure the fingerboard is flat.
Taff
Hi, I would shim under the bridge feet to raise the strings if needed.
If its a metal electric guitar bridge do as above.
I would check the set of the neck to raise or lower the lay of the strings, if needed. So giving adjustability to the bridge.
Did you level all the frets after installing? check frets by using "fret rocker" method.
A high nut would not eliminate buzzing from a fretted string that's vibrating between fret and saddle/bridge.
If those two frets are buzzing when strings not fretted. refer to the hints above.
Would be nice to know what you find, please let us know.
Taff
Thanks for reply, I assume fret board setup of 1/4" over lid us same no matter what style of bridge is being used?
The same setup with a floating bridge was great, not sure what difference is?
When you say set of the neck, should it be lower in the box?
Hi Brent,
what I think is important is the height of the bridge. I have to refer to full size guitars here.
There is an ideal suggested height for an acoustic guitar bridge and saddle
The fingerboard more often than not, is always 1/4" over the top, plus fret height plus action (string height) to meet the bridge height.
To get the string action you prefer, but keeping the same bridge height you have to tilt the neck (rake) up or down, normally angled down or back 1 - 2 deg.
Some instruments do not follow this set up (some CBG's included). Arch top guitars, mandolins, violins ect have fingerboards that are way over 1/4" above the top, it suits the way the instruments are designed.
I would say this to people in dought about what they are doing - no matter what you are building get a an understanding of the building process of stringed instruments in general. Then when part of a build goes pearshaped, you can adapt your build your way.
One builders wrong way is anther builder correct way, it works In reverse too. What works for one will suit another.
Question: Are the two bridges you mention the same height and in the same position on the top?.
Hope I made sense? Taff
Hi Brent, did you find and and fix your issue, what was the outcome?
Taff
I raised the neck to get about 3/8" clearance from lid to fretboard with no improvement, clearance at strings across lid now 5/8". Still buzzing at early frets even that high and all frets leveled. One item that was poorly designed was the angle off of the box end to floating bridge break angle, it's only 3/4". Could this be a problem? I usually plan on 2" but after scale was measured it was short.
i might also add a shim to the front under the neck and try to get some back angle, that should lower the strings a bit.
Actually removal of a front shim is what is needed for slight back angle