A while back I bought a CBG from a builder and the next thing I knew was the neck had a major bow. I tried to contact him to get it replaced but it seems getting an answer has been long over due so I figure I might as well fix it myself. I was able to buy a jointer because I would like to build some cabinets and figured now was as good a time as any to find a good used one. When I checked the neck on the jointer table I found out it not only had a bow but also a twist. For grins I figured I would test the new machine. It worked like a jewel. The neck is now completely straight. I figured since I was going through this much work I might as well make it to a scale I like to also remedy other issues with the unit.
I want to change the scale length and would like some advice as to what would you guys use to fill the empty slots on the fret board? Would you use a thin veneer, epoxy, wood filler or something else? Thanks for any advice. I figure I might as well experiment on this unit because it was nothing but a good wall hanger as one of the members was telling me with all the issues.
Replies
If you fill it with something that's guaranteed to take stain you could color the fret board too.
What I've done to fill small gaps in wood is to fill the gap with glue wile I'm sanding. Let the wood fill itself. This is only good if your going to paint. Most wood glue will not take to staining. Good wile find sanding. However keep an eye on the paper. Make sure the glue isn't clogging it. This could create scrapes in your woodwork.
That is a good idea to use glue with the wood filings. I used to use super glue with filings on native american flutes and it worked fine. Since the neck is red oak I used a golden oak plastic wood filler and then stained it with Minwax Golden Oak stain and it came out pretty good. I am going to use a couple of coats of satin polyurethane on the neck only. I will use almond oil for lubricating the fret board.
Thanks for the info. I will keep all of your advice in mind. Presently the fill looks pretty good being very similar to the neck I will see how it goes when staining. Thanks.
My suggestion would be to remove a little more material from the neck and make a thick 1/4" thick fretboard and glue it on. If any slots remain they will be small and only show on the side.
Thanks for the advice Kigar. If I ever need to that is a good idea. Presently with the amount taken off the fret board is still very close to .25" thick.
Hi Frank, If I understand you correctly now, you did not remove material from the neck ,but from the fingerboard?. If so my earlier suggestion would have confused the issue as I assumed you had removed the fingerboard and levelled the neck. Sorry about that.
Taff
No problem Taff I appreciate your input. I pulled all the frets and removed a small amount off the finger board due to a bow in the neck and also a slight twist. All straight and strong now. Ordered some supplies to rebuild this one as well as a few tools. Should be interesting and a joy to play since I am setting up correctly and also decided to shorten the neck since changing it to a three string after finding out the neck was not as wide as I was told to play comfortably as a four string. It is basically going to be a complete rebuild with changes on the box also as far as blocks, neck angle and braces. I will have to post a photo when I am finished. Thanks,
Your welcome, enjoy the learning curve.
Taff
Figured it would be a good practice run.
Hi, removing material off the neck would have weekend it some, so consider a new fretboard that is thicker [hardwood] to get some stability back into the neck.
I find when practicing its good to practice the "best practice" method. Like learning to play guitar, if you practice things wrong, you just get good at doing it wrong. Ha ha.
Or as already mentioned practice on a new neck, shorter scale guitars normally have a shorter neck, then it will not be a wall hanging.
Taff
-
1
-
2
of 2 Next