I've got buzzing on the first 3 frets...all 3 strings...the rest of the board no problem. Where do I start running this down? How does one level all the frets? Special tool needed? Neck board looks flat and straight to me...I thought it might be a little dip at the headstock end but looks fine with eyeballs. Thanks
You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!
Never solved it...just put the thing aside for awhile. I ran the file across and now have real flat frets...I used a rocker up and down the board twice filing a few as I went. I can't even tell where its buzzing...its up to thex5th fret on the low G still 3rd on D and g...I have a 3string hardtail bridge. I noticed the saddle adjustment screws look like they are touching the strings. Does that matter as only the first frets are buzzing? Still trying to figure this out. Ive build 15 and this is the second time I got major buzz. The first one had a dip in the neck and so I pulled out the frets and made it a slide only cbg. Wasn't worth reduing the neck to me...
I noticed the saddle adjustment screws look like they are touching the strings. Does that matter as only the first frets are buzzing
Maybe, could you add a picture of what you described? not enough break angel over the saddle can also cause open strings to buzz and fretting part way up the neck could add just enough...
Frank Larkin > Frank LarkinNovember 16, 2017 at 7:20pm
They are flat from filing so much I guess...I didnt recrown them thinking they may need more filing if I find out why the buzz...had buzz with new frets and have buzz now with filed frets...don't know what to do next. Do you think recrowning now will help?
Taffy Evans > Frank LarkinNovember 16, 2017 at 9:08pm
Hi, a crown on the fret does two things, it stops the string from vibrating on the front edge of the fret and corrects intonation, the measurements should be from the centre of the fret to the bridge and not the front of the fret.
Check for loose frets also. Cos as the file goes over a loose fret they can push down into its slot, it gets filed but less so. As it pops up again it's still higher than its neighbors.
Another tip, a file could be too course and not long enough, I would suggest sandpaper glued to a straight section of aluminium tube. I suggest 50x30x500mm long tube and I mostly use 220grit paper.
Put black marker on all frets then lightly run the sanding bar over the whole f/board (just kissing the tops. Where the marker is gone, high area, where there is still marker, low areas.
Good luck Taff
Richard Dean > Frank LarkinNovember 16, 2017 at 7:28pm
yeah, what Taff said, flat top frets will buzz, you have to recrown them, not saying this is your only issue, but you have to eliminate it, you may have it solved and not know.
And for the record, this is what most call "The fiddly Part" of git building, so don't let it dissuade you, my last git, I used what I thought was dang close to perfectly flat maple fret board, same for the oak neck, was careful installing my frets, and buzzzzzzzzzzzzzz, had to file them, and had some EXTREMELY flat frets when I was done, mostly all gone now after I re-crowned them, I've only have some buzz below the 12th
Taffy Evans > Frank LarkinNovember 16, 2017 at 6:35pm
Hi, when you say frets real flat, do you mean each fretas a flat top....or you recrownd the frets and they are all level? Cos flat top frets will buzz.
Taff.
Hi Frank, it's pretty hard to pinpoint buzzing issues without having the guitar in front of you. What's already been suggested is all very valid.
What Ido is before doing any levelling I make sure the neck is flat, thats a bit difficult with no truss rod to assist. But keep in mind that when you remove strings the neck can back bow slightly. When you run the file or sanding beam over the frets it may take more material off the middle of the fingerboard. When you tune up the tension pulls the neck up causing a dip in the middle and a high spot up around the 12/14 frets. More buzzing.
I find that spot dressing of one fret at a time works well for me. I use suitable length rockers and work up the fingerboard. If a fret rocks in the middle of its two neighbors (5 in between 4 and 6 say) I will mark it with a black marking pen and file it down until it no longer rocks. I do this up the fingerboard. I then use a sanding beam to level all the frets, fine tune.
To crown the frets I again mark all frets with black marker and recrown them. Back in the day I used (and at times still do) a three corner file with the three edges ground smooth so as to not damage the fingerboard.
There's so much more to fretting I have not touched the surface.
I've seen problems caused by frets not seating fully, or pounded out of shape by heavy handed use of the fretting hammer. I don't think I've helped much but good luck.
Cheers Taff
You can get a really cheap re-curve file(crown file) on ebay cheap, they work, otherwise you'll just have some flat spots on your frets, still works, just not as pretty or as functional if you have to take a lot off, but get a straight edge (long-2" or longer) to properly check the frets from one to another. And your only checking from the last fret to the first fret, not the nut or saddle, but you also need to be mindful of the minimum proper string height as well, if your saddle is lower than your nut, that will cause issues as well, have any pics of your build???
Replies
I noticed the saddle adjustment screws look like they are touching the strings. Does that matter as only the first frets are buzzing
Maybe, could you add a picture of what you described? not enough break angel over the saddle can also cause open strings to buzz and fretting part way up the neck could add just enough...
Check for loose frets also. Cos as the file goes over a loose fret they can push down into its slot, it gets filed but less so. As it pops up again it's still higher than its neighbors.
Another tip, a file could be too course and not long enough, I would suggest sandpaper glued to a straight section of aluminium tube. I suggest 50x30x500mm long tube and I mostly use 220grit paper.
Put black marker on all frets then lightly run the sanding bar over the whole f/board (just kissing the tops. Where the marker is gone, high area, where there is still marker, low areas.
Good luck Taff
yeah, what Taff said, flat top frets will buzz, you have to recrown them, not saying this is your only issue, but you have to eliminate it, you may have it solved and not know.
And for the record, this is what most call "The fiddly Part" of git building, so don't let it dissuade you, my last git, I used what I thought was dang close to perfectly flat maple fret board, same for the oak neck, was careful installing my frets, and buzzzzzzzzzzzzzz, had to file them, and had some EXTREMELY flat frets when I was done, mostly all gone now after I re-crowned them, I've only have some buzz below the 12th
Taff.
My first thought when all strings buzzed on frets 1-3 was if your action was too low at the nut end....
Are you sure it is not the bridge or the tuners or the shirt button against the back of the body or.
What Ido is before doing any levelling I make sure the neck is flat, thats a bit difficult with no truss rod to assist. But keep in mind that when you remove strings the neck can back bow slightly. When you run the file or sanding beam over the frets it may take more material off the middle of the fingerboard. When you tune up the tension pulls the neck up causing a dip in the middle and a high spot up around the 12/14 frets. More buzzing.
I find that spot dressing of one fret at a time works well for me. I use suitable length rockers and work up the fingerboard. If a fret rocks in the middle of its two neighbors (5 in between 4 and 6 say) I will mark it with a black marking pen and file it down until it no longer rocks. I do this up the fingerboard. I then use a sanding beam to level all the frets, fine tune.
To crown the frets I again mark all frets with black marker and recrown them. Back in the day I used (and at times still do) a three corner file with the three edges ground smooth so as to not damage the fingerboard.
There's so much more to fretting I have not touched the surface.
I've seen problems caused by frets not seating fully, or pounded out of shape by heavy handed use of the fretting hammer. I don't think I've helped much but good luck.
Cheers Taff
You can get a really cheap re-curve file(crown file) on ebay cheap, they work, otherwise you'll just have some flat spots on your frets, still works, just not as pretty or as functional if you have to take a lot off, but get a straight edge (long-2" or longer) to properly check the frets from one to another. And your only checking from the last fret to the first fret, not the nut or saddle, but you also need to be mindful of the minimum proper string height as well, if your saddle is lower than your nut, that will cause issues as well, have any pics of your build???
cheap file---> file
-
1
-
2
-
3
of 3 Next