Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Teddy B. on August 27, 2010 at 10:29am

I don't see why not, if you use the same box, and the same action height, and the first one is in tune.

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Permalink Reply by Teddy B. on August 27, 2010 at 10:53am

Well, actually an action height that's too tall will stretch the srtings differently and produce a sharp tone.

Naz Nomad said:

The box and the action are irrelevant ... as long as the scale is the same (and the original is correctly fretted, obviously), then go for it.

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Permalink Reply by Josh Gayou (SmokehouseGuitars) on August 27, 2010 at 12:33pm

You could but it's harder to get good accuracy.

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Permalink Reply by Rocky7 on August 27, 2010 at 2:02pm

Thanks all!

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Permalink Reply by David L. on August 28, 2010 at 5:07am

Hi,
I was put onto this by an excellent uke maker
http://www.brothersoft.com/fret-calculator-download-44473.html
It is free to download and then you put in your scale length and number of frets required and it prints out the fret positions relative to the nut. He used to stick it to the fretboard and score through the paper with a sharp knife and then had where to saw scored ready for fretting.
It would be quicker and simpler than trying to measure frets on a neck.

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Permalink Reply by Cogdell boy (Robert J.) on August 28, 2010 at 10:16am

Get you a fret chart from Musicmakers at
www.harpkit.com for $12.50 + S&H . It's the best investment (tool) I've ever bought .. Scale runs from 13" to 31.5" with the frets for a dulcimer scale marked on it also .. I use it on all my builds and it's so easy to use . I you build much you need to check one out ..If you can see them the dotted lines are the ones to leave out for the dulcimer fretting ..It takes all the guess work out of it ..Even has a fretting guide and tells you how to put frets in .. I even use it on my unfretted ones to just draw my frets out .

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Permalink Reply by Outhouse Instruments on August 29, 2010 at 12:41am

Action has absolutely noting to do with fret placement. It is purely a function of the vibrating string length, or scale.
How ever you do it - fretcalc ( my fav - will run in google in a browser window) the other programs, matching your other guitar - do the frets to the scale.
Then if it needs work on the action, tale care of that.


Matt

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Permalink Reply by Glenn Reither on November 8, 2010 at 4:53pm

Be careful with printing out a scale! Your printer won't necessarily print it at the true dimensions and the positions could be wrong. Also paper can be buckled etc, sticky tape can stretch.
Best way is to get a strip of aluminium or something, mark the fret scale on that VERY carefully by using a long ruler and the figures in the fret scale calculator. Double check it. Now you have a solid scale for all your gats. I used aluminium strip, a sharp knife, permanent marker to make the marks nice and clear, and engraved the fret nums, scale lenght and compensted/uncompenstated with the Dremel.

There's a calculator that includes a stretch compensation option which is handy for high actions. I tend to set mine a bit high to make slide easier and gives a bit of tolerance for any SLIGHTLY uneven frets. You'll hear from the demos that the intonation is pretty damn good.

http://windworld.com/features/tools-resources/exmis-fret-placement-...

I have made 610mm and 650mm rulers in both uncompensated and compensated versions and now marking up frets is very quick and easy.

Using an existing neck - you'll only add to any marginal errors in the original. Better to start from scratch as I described.



David Lloyd said:

Hi,
I was put onto this by an excellent uke maker
http://www.brothersoft.com/fret-calculator-download-44473.html
It is free to download and then you put in your scale length and number of frets required and it prints out the fret positions relative to the nut. He used to stick it to the fretboard and score through the paper with a sharp knife and then had where to saw scored ready for fretting.
It would be quicker and simpler than trying to measure frets on a neck.

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