Finishing

Building my first Cigar Box....

I was wondering if anyone has feelings on the best way to  apply what finish on the cigar box itself.

I would think some kind of finish would be necessary to keep the box clean and prevent the paper from wearing.....

Are the boxes normally finished?

Thanks, Bll

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Replies

  • Does anyone use (and Like) Howard's Feed-N-Wax on their fretboards?

  • I use a clear spray on lacquer on all my boxes.  I actually spray a light coating on them at the very start.  I find it helps keep the box clean and protects the paper from getting marked up by accidents.  When I'm finishing the project I give it another light coat to brighten it up a bit.  But each to their own.

    • What about the fretboard. For my first two builds I just rubbed some furniture polish in em that gave a little colour. Bit of ilive oil as well. I didnt use any laquer.But on build 3 and soon to be completed build 4 (becoming an expert he ge), I have laquered fretboard. The finish is more shiny but I don't know what other benefit the laquer serves (maybe helps my glued on frets stay in place).It would stop the nstural skin oils getting into your fretboard and greasy finger stuff. That is probably a negative.
      • I have built many stringed instruments and I only lacquered the first one. Not a good idea.

        Lacquer on a fretboard will become sticky and will wear off and look like crap. I have found the best finish for fretboards is a product called "TrueOil".   True oil is normally used for finishing  on a gun stocks. It drys to a clear clean finish that holds up well. Ideal for fretboards.

        Here is what I do: I use a wood called Ipe. It is a dark, very hard wood that does not have a visible grain. I cut it to size and sand it to 320 grit. then I wipe on a coat of True Oil . A day later I wipe on a second coat and when it is dry sand to 600 grit. I then cut in the fret slots and buff the board with 0000 steel wool. Then I press in the frets, file flush with the edge and file the angle on the frets and file smooth. I lock in the frets with thin CA and it is ready to glue to the neck.  

        20150509_145533 (1).jpg

        • I use olive oil. Easy to get, easy to apply, wood soaks it up, and you can fry your hottest licks with it. ;-)
          • Lol Ron. Just add some garlic uh..delicious.

            @ William. Wish I hadn't used laquer now. It does get sticky slick. Just doesnt feel right. Think I might get the laquer off my latest build. The oil you mentioned sounds good. A lovely little instrument you showed. The fretboard looks great. Plenty of elbow grease has gone into it. Sanding has never been my forte. I must get more into it
            • You can always remove the lacquer from the fretboard. Just rub it with a cotton rag and acetone. After all the lacquer is removed, just recoat with Tru Oil.

              You can get a 3 oz bottle on Amazon for about $6... I have used it on over 20 fretboards ant still have 2/3 of the bottle left.

              • Thanx for laquer removal tip William. Gotta get me some Tru oil. I read this about it www.mandolinluthier.com/Hfinish-tru-oil.htm Maybe a gun shop would have it. I read about a DIY gun oil made of boiled linseed, walnut oil and turps. It was in a luthier forum. I'm thinkin it was gum turpentine as poster said it had a great smell.
                • Tru oil is nothing special. It is just a simple tung oil based burnishing oil. I use a wipe on polly in a similar way. Wipe on all over then rub hard for a burnished finish, dont wipe for a more paint like finish. I always rub the fret board and fine steel wool between coats.

                  • True (ha)... For a brighter shine, glossier than 4o steel wool I use those green plastic scrub pads for scrubbing dishes after the 4 0 steel wool.
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