Uh, boy.

 I have spent hours searching again, (my search skills suck). Looking for any info I can about cutting the headstock  and adding a zero-fret to a C.B. Gitty fretted neck. There are several firsts here in my build history. First pre-made neck. First fretted build. First scarf joint on a build. and my first zero-fret.

 Has anyone done this? I can't find any instructions or even a good, clear picture that tells me whether to cut my headstock on top or bottom to thin for the tuners on these necks. Also, the distance from nut to first fret is supposed to be 1.403. I was told that the nut marking tape was supposed to be "on" the correct spot to cut. It's real position is 1.450 +- .010. Should I place the center line of the zero-fret (Jumbo fret) 1.403 from the centerline of the first fret? If I cut the excess thickness of the headstock from the bottom, will the strings clear the transition area between the nut and the scarfed part of the headstock, or should I cut from the top? (Hope that makes sense)

 Anyway, thank you for any assistance you guys and girls can offer.

Ray

007.JPG

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Hi Ray, I'm not quite sure I understand your problem. However, could you not find the nut position, as the fingerboard is already fretted, by measuring back from the 12th fret. That would be half the scale length. Sorry I can't help more.
Taff

Thanks Taffy.

In the picture, it shows the tape with the nut position marked slightly off, no worries there. Just to the headstock side of the nut marking, there is the beginning of the slope of the headstock about 1/4 inch from the nut. I am worried that the strings won't clear that point of the transition from the neck to headstock on their way to the tuners. Should I take the excess thickness of the headstock off the top, or bottom? 

I hope that is more clear than mud.

Ray

Ok Ray, I did not see that 007 jpg thingy.

Ok, what I would do is find the zero fret position
Then behind the fret put a nut on the flat neck space so the back of the nut, it can be wood, sits just we're the peghead angle starts. It is only to keep the strings spaced properly.

Then check the length of the tuner posts allow 1/4" to 5/16" of post above the peghead face. Thin the peghead if required from the back, then blend it into the neck shaft.

If to take timber off of the top of The peghead you make the head longer and the fingerboard shorter.
Hope this is what you neaded
Good luck Taff

 Perfect. Nicely described, Taffy! You are a gem. It seems simple now, but I was banging my head on this one. Never had this much invested in a neck before. Guess I'm so frightened of scrapping it, I'm not thinking straight...  

 Thank you very much!

 Ray

Happy to help Ray. In the photo, imagine a zero nut in place, I have put a veneer on top of the head this left room for a slot for the “string spacer nut”, or you can cut the slot, I then thicknessed from the back.

Taff

 I was looking for that... Seemed to remember that article from quite some time back, but couldn't find it recently. Thanks. Taffy has cleared it up pretty well for me, but this link you posted has added to the confidence level. Thank you, Brian.

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